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Fujica stx-1 film wind on jammed is it worth the bother of repair?

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SOURCE: NEED A NEW FOCUS SCREEN FUJICA AX-1 35MM CAMERA

have now found one localey

Posted on May 13, 2009


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SOURCE: not winding on

are you in a humid climate? take out nthe battery and clean with a dry cloth. if no good press the camera against your body and take a few shots-a waste but checks the wind on.

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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SOURCE: I just purchased a Voigtlander VITO B with a

things that have value are worth using my friend... you only have one life... at least that's my theory

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

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Fujica AX-1-in excellent condition .Winds on, display shows correct shutter speed,self timer triggers shutter as does shutter release. However it fires on one speed and doesn't select...


Sorry, but your camera is beyond economic repair. Fujica X-mount models were never popular and spare parts and lenses are nearly as rare as fresh **** ****. Your camera has far exceeded its original design lifespan so either a part in the shutter release assembly or the shutter assembly itself has failed, or even more likely the period of disuse simply allowed internal lubricant films to dry out and gum up the works. Professional repairs are not an option, but you can try to dismantle your camera to clean out and replace all internal lubricants. Even if your camera worked perfectly it would still have virtually no resale value so you have nothing to lose and valuable experience to gain even if you fail. The model is so scarce that you will have great difficulty finding any online repair manuals or diagrams. If your repairs fail then the good news is that there are millions of unused and unwanted 35mm SLR cameras and lenses to be had. Almost all of mine have been obtained for free just by asking family, friends and co-workers or by keeping an eye out on my local FreeCycle and Freegle groups.

Sep 24, 2011 | Fuji Photography

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

Everything seems to function well, actually, I've never used this camera. Got if off of ebay, so maybe I was gypped. Anyways, the film advance lever seems to be stuck. It only goes half way. I can put...


DO NOT force it. It's going to need to be opened up by a technician and checked out. It may, or may not be repairable (or worth repairing). Batteries will have nothing to do with whether or not the wind lever will function. It sounds like the camera has jammed on someone, so they sold it off (probably without stating that little issue). The Chinon cameras aren't especially high-end, you can probably buy 10 new ones for the cost of having that one repaired, but you'll only know by finding a shop and asking.

May 30, 2011 | Photography

1 Answer

Can you please tel me what my vivitor camra lens fits what camras etc it is a vivitor 200mmm 1:3.5 auto telephoto no 28516468 62mm do you know the price these lenses go for many thanks


The lens itself is virtually worthless, possibly £10 at best and even then it needs to be flawless, in perfect working order and to have both front and rear protective caps. Collectors are really only interested in near mint examples of manufacturer's own brand lenses. Most lens buyers are now after lenses which work with digital SLR's and older lenses designed for 35mm film are often less than ideal or completely useless. Modern lenses are usually zoom models and fixed focal length primes like yours are less versatile.

Regarding the mounting, the serial number is no help. Look around the mounting for clues, it might have any of the following:-

N = Nikon
Ca, C, or MD = Canon
CY = Contax Yashica
O or OL = Olympus
M = Minolta
P, PK or P = Pentax
M42 = 42mm screw fit used on old SLR's, also Zenith and Practika
X = Fujica, this is rare so may be worth a little more but there are also very few Fujica owners anyway so may not sell at all.

If there are no clues that you can make sense of then take the camera along to a camera shop, preferably one which sells used 35mm film SLR's and they should be able to identify it for you.

I hope this has helped you, if so please rate my answer.

Feb 21, 2010 | Cameras

1 Answer

My halina mw wont stop winding on


The Halina 35MW wasn't well built and they often had various motor wind problems. This will usually due to one of two things:-

1. A small cam which operates a microswitch on the winder mechanism has broken or worn off.

2. There is a short in the supply to the motor.

Unfortunately, the camera was only ever built as a cheap item and was never designed to be taken apart and repaired. Both faults may in theory be repairable, but from experience you'll almost certainly break something else whilst trying. As the 35MW had poor build quality, poor film registration, and a really poor lens just throw the thing away.

There are loads of far better 35mm film cameras around and there are so many lurking in folks drawers and cupboards that there's never any need to pay for one. Try your local FreeCycle or Freegle group. The free cameras aren't limited to 35mm compacts either; I've had boxed and near unused 35mm AF SLR's by all of the major manufacturers including many accessories as almost nobody wants 35mm gear any more and resale values are so low that some can't be bothered with the hassle of eBay listings, PayPal registration and all the fees charged.

Jan 08, 2010 | Photography

1 Answer

The shutter on my Canon G-III QL 17 has jammed. When I press the shutter release that film can be advanced, but it has taken no picture. Now the camera is also stuck on Bulb. Is it worth fixing?


suspect that the syncronisation chain is jammed this can happen after many years, not worth repairing most likely there are not many who have the parts now, probably best to purchase a replacement from second hand if you like the camera and the results it gives. i suspect they are cheaper than any attempt to repair.

Nov 13, 2009 | Canon G-III QL-17 Film Camera

2 Answers

Jammed canon at1 slr


Believe it or not, i just put a new battery in it and BINGO, back to life again....cheers G.

Jul 22, 2009 | Canon AV1 35mm SLR CAMERA SPARES OR REPAIR...

1 Answer

F--


Unlike other cameras that start at frame #1 after loading and count up as the film is used, the N55 advance the film to the last frame during the loading process. When loading is complete, the frame counter stops at the number of available frames on the roll (usually 24 or 36) and counts down as photos are taken. I know it sounds backwards but it actually makes a lot of sense to engineer it this way. After the last photo is taken (displays 1 on the counter), the camera automatically winds the end of the film into the cassette and the counter shows a blinking E. I am assuming that that is what is being displayed and not a blinking F. it it is an F, perhaps there is a problem with the LCD display? If so, it probably isn't worth having it repaired.

Jun 26, 2007 | Nikon N55 35mm Film Camera

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