Question about Panasonic PV-C2780 27 in. TV/VCR Combo

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Not comeing on

Unit not coming on after power outage. Found 1.6A 125V fuse blown.

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SOURCE: no power on LCD after power outage

First, check whether it is the fuse in the home wiring that is out. You should plug something else into the outlet to see if the outlet is still functioning.
Some electronic equipment has a reset switch (fuse) on the back panel. Others have a special sequence of buttons on the panel that will act as a reset. Check your user manual to see whether your unit has such a switch or reset sequence.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: No power. I changed fuse but microwave blows it immediately.

Be very careful! Standard microwaves have 2100volt capacitors and commercial ones 4000 volt capacitors.
*Decharge your capacitor(s) before doing diagnostics*.
You are now testing the high voltage side (as it works on convection). The main components are a transformer, a capacitor, a diode and a magnetron (havent seen a triac in a panasonic residential). If you have a proper meter that can test uf, decharge the capacitor, then test the capacitor, if it reads 0, you need a new capacitor (10$ used typically, 14$ new from ebay). To test the magnetron, decharge the capacitor first, remove the spade connections, test each leg to the frame of the microwave... if it shows measurable resistance, the magnetron is bad. The transformer is not something you test as I personally dont have a 4000 volt meter. If the diode, the magnetron and capacitor are okay, then the transformer is bad. To eliminate any other function, disconnect the low voltage to the transformer run a micropower cycle and check the fuse.
Hope that helps. My first instinct is the capacitor.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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1 Answer

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Hello. I need the make/model number to help you most accurately. From the symptom you describe, there might be a main fuse located on or near the main control board which has opened, killing power to the unit. Clues: totally dead--no lights--an open door will not affect indicator lights, the unit won't do anything though--safety(nothing will happen until the door is closed) Have you had a power outage recently? Usually 3-4 weeks after an outage, the damaged chips on the boards start to fail. This can be evidenced by blown control panels, blown main boards, etc. Make sure 120 volts *is* getting to the dishwasher--check the power connections below(be careful). If the breaker has tripped, reset it and see if the unit runs. Troubleshooting starts from the outside and proceeds inward, eliminating the obvious and moving to ever more complex problems until the culprit is found. Definitely supply me with that model number so I can see what I'm dealing with and guide you correctly. Thanks!

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1 Answer

How to change fuse


See Service Manual, fuses F7001 (6,3A), F7002 (1,6A), bimetal switch (page 17 - power unit, page 33 - Checking the power unit, page 126 - gray areas of the wiring diagram, fuses F7001, F7002):
http://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros/XVZ10000.pdf

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1 Answer

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i had the same problem and did what this fella suggested and worked just fine. There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave, mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. If the model number you listed this question under is correct, the line fuse is connected in line with the power cord inside the unit and is listed as part of item 4 in the parts listing (part number STD384200).

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended.

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1 Answer

While cooking it just quit. Checked circuit breaker & was ok. I have no schematic of the inside so I haven't taken apart yet to see if there may be an inside fuse.


There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave, mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Or, on a line filter control power. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. Since you provided no model number, I can only give this basic advice.

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

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1 Answer

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There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave, mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. If the model number you listed this question under is correct, the line fuse is connected in line with the power cord inside the unit and is listed as part of item 4 in the parts listing (part number STD384200).

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

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1 Answer

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There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave, mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this wiring diagram at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


This model has TWO potential causes. The line fuse or the Thermal Cut-Out (Thermostat) for the Magnetron. The line fuse is connected in line with the power cord inside the unit and is listed as part of item 26 under the "Cabinet-Base-Cavity" heading.

The Magnetron Thermostat is listed as item 6 (part number 56001028) under the same heading. If you managed to overheat the oven any time recently, you may want to check the thermostat to see if it is still good. It should read 0 ohms when measured out of the circuit across the terminals.

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

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According the parts list on the model unit your fuse is suppose to be F101,FUSE 6A 125V. Is it possible that you have an undersized fuse?

I don't believe that one amp differents would cause your unit to blow like that but, you never know. More than likely you have a bad component in the power supply or power amp.

Then again, with an average replacement cost of $150 online; it not worth getting too deep into the repairs.

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Hi Nikadis your problem is shorted,when you going to change new fuse its blown away.The diodes there in supply is shorted change that ,and the capacitor also short look it up.If you do this your unit will come on.message me whatever the result.

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