Treadmill only hums when turned on, tread does not work

unlikely--- humming noise is from a vibration caused by failing drive line joints , bearing failures, out of balance drive shafts , failing rear engine mounts, worn slip joints, worn output shaft bush in the transmission housing
it can also be from bad tyres or tyres with a regular tyre pattern in the tread
To understand this you have to closely inspect the tread pattern of tyres and you will see that the pattern is not consistent around the tyre as that consistency is what gives a noise ( example is the old bar tread tyre and the road hum that was produced on hard surface roads)

Easy its probably the plastic tread that the window motor moves to raise or lower your window or its the window thread is also inside the door. Only way to determine it is move door panel screws, handles, switches then pry the clips out to remove panel. you can see what is wrong/broke and fix.

It is in the tank, Lower rear seat raise the carpet behind the rear seat panel that moves with seat and you will see a panel covering the tank sending unit. Unscrew and pull sending unit out. Another filter may be inline on passenger side rear that MB has a filter and line kit upgrade.

Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem

There is a cotter pin that you remove first. Unbolt the tie rod end to where it attaches to the vehicle. You will the need to use a tie rod end separtor to separate it from the knuckle. It is a U kind of tool that you hammer in and it will separate it for you. You will understand what I mean when you see the tool. Next you take two wrenches, one that fits on the flat part of the tie rod end itself ( close to the nut you will see one the treaded bar it is attached to. Take the other wrench and turn the nut on the treaded part of the bar that the tir rod end is attached to. Loosen the bolt, it just needs to be loose so you can turn the tie rod end around. Now that it is loose "unscrew the tie rod end from the treaded bar. Remember to count how many times you turn the tie rod end so you turn it the same amount of turns when you put the new one on. Reassemble in the oposite order remebering to turn that tie rod end the same amount of turns. Make sure that the bolt attached to the treaded bar that the tie rod end screws on is good and tight against the tie rod end so it stays put. I would still think about getting an alighnment and would replace both right and left tie rod ends. I hope this helped and good luck

sounds like the gears need to be look at dont continue using untill you get it repaired you could burn out the motor

(Caution ) sway bar end is under pressure.

1.go to AutoZone get new linkage bars or just the bushings depends on wether the bar has grooves wore into them from use and new nuts. 2. Raise and safely support vehicle,3. remove tire, 4.using floor jack safely support the lower suspension arm and raise to remove pressure on the linkage bar between swaybar end and lower arm 5. remove the nut under the lower suspension arm that retains the swaybar linkage ,6. loosen and remove nut at swaybar end. 7.at this time only lower the lower suspension arm enough to remove the linkage bar. install new bushings or bar to the swaybar end don't completely tighten nut at this time.8. install new lower bushing then jack the lower suspension arm back up aligning the lower end of the linkage with the hole in the arm once pressure is lifting the swaybar install the lower nut and tighten at this time Torque top nut to35-47 Ft lb and bottom nut 8-10- Ft lb lower the jack from under the lower arm and install tire lower vehicle ready to go Appx 1 Hr per side

This is how 2.8TD.Remove the belts (fan and power steering)with a 10mm socket un-screw the plastic cover. To remove the bottom pully their is 3 small screws inside the pully (10mm or 12mm) unscrew them and take off the pully. Do not try to remove the big nut. Remove the plastic cover. Their is a small hole in all the drive wheel's their is a treaded hole in the engine block behind each one and a mark on the crank shaft. Turn the engine until the mark on the crankshaft is at the top then push the bolts ( metric course tread 12 or 13 mm head 4 to 5 ins long) through the holes in the drive wheel's and try to screw them in if they dont line up first time turn the crankshaft 1 turn and try again. When they all line up screw in the bolds this keeps the timing in place. Release the tention pully (the one with no tracks on and pushing against the back of the belt) remove the old belt replace. To tighten the tention pully put a small socket bar in the square hole turn until the belt is tight hold the preasure on the socket bar ant tighten the locking screw. Remove the screws job done.

usually signs of a wheel bearing issue, is a vibration over 55mph. You can raise each tire off the ground (one at a time,follow the instructions inside your owners manual, chock the wheels, and you a jack stand) put your hand at 12 and 6 (clock position) and try to rock the wheel back and forth. Any free-play in the bearing would mean you do. Also you can spin the wheel and if the bearings sound noisy then you need them. But take a look at the tread on the tires, if the tread isn't flat across, if there is unusual wear that could be causing your noise. You can try rotating the tires to see if that helps.

inspect frt end tie rods,idler arm,pitman arm,inner tie rods,steeringbox,control arms upper and lower bushings.1or more of these parts could be worn