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It may not be the wiring, it could be the amp itself. If you are completely confident the power wire is not grounded the following test will confirm it. If it is grounded you will be out another fuse. Disconnect the power wire from the amp. Tape or cap off so it doesn't accidentally touch metal. Replace your fuse (take a part the fuse holder if you can and use a small cheap fuse.) If it is grounded the fuse will pop. If it doesn't pop, the problem is in the amp or improper wiring at the amp.
loose connection to the power line and or ground. ground good be grounded poorly. best ground is to scratch the paint off the car frame under the carpet in the trunk and put a eyelet on the wire and screw it to the frame.also check your inline fuse on the power line from the battery if you dont have one you should. and also make sure you are using the right gauge wiring for your amp,
DISCONNECT THE GROUND WIRE. SAND ALL THE PAINT FROM THAT AREA AND REGROUND IT. WHAT I WOULD RECOMMEND IS DRILLING A HOLE THROUGH THAT TRUNK, SAND THE PAINT AWAY FROM WHERE THE GROUND WIRE WILL GO AND BOLT THE GROUND WIRE TO THE TRUNK BOTTOM. THE PAINT WILL CAUSE THE AMP NOT TO GET A SOLID GROUND
its your fuse box. i would bypass the fuse box and wire this amp directly to the battery via monster cable. make sure you attach a 30wieght fuse to the monster cable that is running from the battery to your amp. ground the amp against the trunk. scrape the paint of a section and drill a hole in the trunk. use this for the ground for you amp. this will fix the no power issue.
I would recommend using an 8 AWG minimum or preferably 4 AWG power and ground cable. Use as short a ground lead as possible and connect it directly to some chassis metal (avoid accidentally screwing into the gas tank if in trunk). Use a fuse holder with a 40 - 60 amp fuse under the hood within 18 inches of the battery. Your RCA cable coming from the back of the JVC radio should be run to your amp along with the remote turn on lead. This wire should connect to the JVC's amplifier turn on lead which should be a blue wire with a white stripe.
it is probably the rca inputs on the amp may have fried. was your cd decked turned up loudly before the power went out? did any wires accidently touch each other? If had worked fine and then suddenly stopped, than either a wire came loose or the inputs fried. try using different cables and I also suggest disconnecting power for 24 hours and then reconnect. If the green light is on then it is getting power and the problem is in the rca cables or the inputs
Apart from the external DC power fuse (I hope you have one in-line), the majority of in-car amps have 2 mini fuses inside the unit to protect the output MOSFETs from overloading due to incorrect speaker connections, ie, if the output impedence is rated at 4ohms, anything less than that is considered to be a short circuit, and will overload the MOSFETs.
After performing the tests suggested by KaeZoo, open the unit and look for printed markings on the circuit board, something like F1, F2, the fuses may not look like conventional fuses.
I would definately suspect wiring. If you can use a volt meter. Put it on the b+ to ground and see what the reading is should be 12+ then try the ground to remote wire should be 12+. If it drops below 12 volts when car starts. Recheck wires for loose connection. Also double check the wire you have the remote wire connected to. You might even want to disconnect from the amplifier and use a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the amp to remote on the amplifier and see if it stays on then. If it stays on you will have to find the loose connection or find a different wire to get remote power.