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Admiral Capacity Plus Dryer won't start. No light when door open. Plugged in, Circuit Breaker Reset, socket live, (tested). Internal fuse or circuit breaker?

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  • tuttleags Nov 06, 2008

    Own model LNC7766A00. Light will not come on and no power. Checked breaker and also confirmed wall outlet is hot. Suggested electrical checks sound accurate. I found electical diagram factory taped to inside of back panel of control knobs but sure would be nice to find a manual on-line to know where to dig first for the fuse. Case design is terrible and requries removal of dozens of small bolts and full 3 side of case just to get access. We'll see...

  • Anonymous Jan 10, 2009

    Same problem. Admiral Capacity Plus electric dryer. Stopped mid-cycle, won't start, no light inside. There's no easy way to get into this thing...

  • milo3156 Jan 13, 2009

    my dryer quit working LNC7766A00 capacity plus. has AC at all contacts but won't start and has no light.... The clothes smelt burnt when I took them out.. is there a fuse I can check or a way to test the motor? THanks

  • kjkmd Feb 23, 2009

    Same problem...quit in mid cycle. No light. Will a clogged vent hose cause this problem?

  • Anonymous Apr 14, 2009

    dryer wont start...no door light...like is T has no power...

  • rpblanke Apr 20, 2009

    Dryer stopped in mid-cycle. No light on in the dryer and the circuit breaker was on - reset and still didn't work.



    Model number is LNC7764A71



    What can be done?

  • zminiz May 10, 2009

    My dryer has started making this rattling sound as if there is a loose screw or something. But that is just a guess. Any ideas as to what it might be ? And can it be fixed ?

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  • Master
  • 943 Answers

Hi yes there is a thermal fuse in the dryer at the back on the air duct a small plastic piece with 2 small blue wires check that also door switch thanks the appliance doc

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

  • sgranados Jul 24, 2011

    if anyone still needs info, there are TWO thermal fuses. One to the side of the coil, has two leads and is as round as a dime, the other is on top of the coil and is as round as a nickel. I just had the same problem - stopped no light, hot VAC. i just jumped all the leads until I found the circuit not working.

    As far as the rattling sound, the plastic bushing and metal cip on the blower (fan blade) are loose. Remove the clip, and crimp it a little bit, then replace it. The blade should run quieter, if there is still a little noise, remove the clip and the fan blade, shim the drive shaft with a little tefon tape, and the fan blase should fit more snug now. Replace the clip.

    14 year dryer that still works.

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1 Answer

Dryer light bulb burned out


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Light Socket

The light socket can get corroded or a wire connection can come loose. You will need to remove the front panel to access the housing on most dryers.

Door Switch

If your dryer has an interior light, it probably uses a standard 40-watt appliance bulb, but check your owner's manual to be sure. If the bulb is good but the light won't come on, check the door switch, which serves two functions: When the door is closed, it turns off the light and allows the dryer to start. When the door is open, it turns on the light and prevents the dryer from starting. To check the door switch check for continuity. You should have some when the door is closed and none when the door is opened.If not replace the door switch by removing the front panel.

It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker

Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. Loose connections on the power cord cause failures and or fires. This can be checked with the dryer unplugged and removing the service cover and visually check for burning and mechanically check for tightness.

If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.

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Admiral dryer super capacity dryer won't heat up and light doesn't stay on. It happened when we first brought it home years ago and the repair may said to reset some button but I don't kn


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Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

9_29_2012_1_12_45_pm.jpg

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1 Answer

Admiral heavy duty super capacity dryer won't heat up.


see this causes , fix it. God bless you, use the common sense
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
9_29_2012_1_13_53_pm.jpg

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1 Answer

Will not turn on


Hi,
A dryer can not start for many reasons...
This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

heatman101

Apr 05, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Admiral LNC8764A71 gas dryer is dead. I replaced the thermal fuse but that didn't work. I reset my circuit breaker and the unit is still dead. The light inside the drum is not coming on, I think that...


First a simple check.

As you just open or just close the door do you hear a click? If the door switch is stuck in the open position the light will always be on and the dryer will not start. Item 8 (kit)

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=678084&pkw_=basket&model_id=46747&NewWindow=1


Also check the belt safety switch back by the motor. If the belt is worn or the switch is out of adjustment same result... no start. (yours may not have this switch..... )

The start circuit is from the timer to the start switch to the door switch to the motor switch. All form an interlock circuit and each must be functioning for the dryer to start.

On a gas dryer this expensive thermostat can also cause the problem....

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4055834&rdr=%2fpartsearch%2fmodel.aspx%3fmodel_id%3d46747%26diagram_id%3d680266

CHECK it with a meter... it should read like a solid wire. I.e Continuity. Make sure to test it...

There are 2 thermal fuses...

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-LNC8764A71-%3d%3dec278i3344&PartID=3344

This should get you going.

After that the only other possibilites are the timer and the motor / motor switch.

Thanks for using FixYa.

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We have an admiral capacity plus dryer that was hard wired into a home. We have bought it and wondered if it is possible to put a 30amp plug on it and plug it into a socket?


No. It needs a separate, dedicated, 30A supply circuit. Depending upon which country you're in the regular circuits are rated far below that: in Europe for example, it's usually 13A or 15A.

Plug your dryer into a regular circuit and it will trip the breaker if one is fitted (should be!) or blow the circuit fuse if the property has an old wiring system.

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1 Answer

Hoover HDC7FM condensor dryer starts then cuts out


Open the dryer door (right after the breaker trips) and check for a burned smell. If it smells in the dryer, you probably have a direct short in the dryer wiring. Check for a burn smell at the wall socket. There may be a short in the socket itself, but not likely unless a mouse is lying across the contacts in the wall.
If everything checks ok replace the circuit breaker if this is an older home. Circuit breakers weaken after years of use. A 30 amp circuit breaker will trip at a much lower amperage after a period of years especially if it has tripped often.

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• Be sure the door is latched shut.
• Be sure the power cord is plugged into a live electrical outlet.
• Check the home’s circuit breaker and fuses.
• Press the START button again if the door is opened during the cycle.

If everything checks out ok with the above check list, you may have electrical motor issues. I would run a break point test on the motor and the control panel as well. (You will need a Voltage needle to perform a break point test.)

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Washer Stops

• Plug cord into live electrical outlet.
• Check fuse or reset circuit breaker.
• Close door and push the start/pause pad to start the clothes washer. For your safety,
washer will not tumble or spin unless door is closed.
• This may be a pause or soak period in the cycle. Wait briefly and it may start.
Check screens on inlet hoses at the faucets for obstructions. Clean screens periodically.
If the sreens are colged or even a little sirty it will stop the washer!


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• Be sure the door is tightly closed.
• Plug cord into a live electrical outlet. (Tub light should illuminate).
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• Press the start/pause pad.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
• Turn both faucets on fully.
• Straighten inlet hoses.
• Disconnect hoses and clean screens. Hose filter screens may be plugged.
• Open and close the door, then push the start/pause pad.
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Huuum
Pleae remember to leave a rating

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