The freezer is cold and it ices up in the 3 holes. The refrigerator is warm. Behind the freezer panel the motor fan will not run and there is a burnt up motor smell and black stuff all around the motor area like there was a fire.
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Re: Cold freezer-motor burned up
I had the same issue, but without the burnt parts. I couldn't find a reasonable (less than $150) replacement motor from Haier places, but I just took the motor out and took it to an appliance repair center (in North Denver) They said it was a standard part, charged me around $22 for a new one and I was all set.
For my replacement motor, it was a reversible design, and was initially set to go the wrong way, so I had to reverse it.
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it may not be your cold colntrol. it is more likely the defrost terminator or the heating element (both located in the freezer section) or the defrost timer (located in the refrigerator section). you most likely have an ice buil-up on the evaporator coil that is preventing proper circulation of air accross the coil and into the refrigerator section.
Look on the back wall of the freezer for a ice buildup. If there is ice you have a defrost problem. The defrost timer is in the fresh food section inside the control panel.The defrost heater and defrost thermostat are behind the freezer back panel inside the freezer. Also check the freezer fan. If there is no ice buildup in the freezer the freezer fan motor could be bad.
Fan motors are great item to give off a burning smell when failing. You have one in the freezer compartment behind the back panel. You should be able to hear it when you open the door to the freezer. A second motor is behind the cover panel at the bottom rear of the machine near the compressor. Failure of either motor can cause no cooling, and a burning odor. There is a calrod heater located in the freezer compartment behind the real panel that can short and burn, but it would not immediately cause rapid cooling failure unless it burned a hole in the evaporator causing a total loss of refrigerant. ( I've seen it happen, but it's rare). Beyond those items wiring runs throughout the machine and can be suspect especially if the machine was transported on it's side. Refrigerators should always be moved in an upright position.
You should not have to manually defrost. Your auto defrost system is not working. Check the timer usuall in the frig compartment near the thermostat ( a small hole, use a screwdrive flat tip 1/4" to rotate the timer till it clicks starting the defrost cycle) check freezer in 10-15 min should be defrosted if not you will need to check the heater and thermostat located behind the rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The defrost timer could be under the box in the front behind kick panel or in the rear by the compressor.
You have a defrost issue and needs to be serviced by a qualified LG technician. The freezer fan motor is blocked by a large chunk of ice behind the rear panel of the freezer section. You will need to remove the rear panel to get access to the fan and get rid of the ice. This will get your refrigerator working again but this problem will return. You will need to have your control board replaced.
Same problem with Frigidaire Gallery model#GLRT182SAW5 (dated 2002 on back of case)
Vents were blocked with ice. Vents (from top compartment to lower) located behind light. You can check by poking a chopstick up the (2) holes; be careful not to hit fan blades.
- took freezer coil cover off in back; checked that defrost heater element was working (marked and rotated the timer in the hole next to light); checked that fan working. Found ice in the vents and defrost drip area. Got it out with hair dryer.
- cleaned compressor coils in back (check fan is rotating; also tweaked some of the compressor tubing bends to make them more smooth - read somewhere about a manufacturing defect ...); blew out drip tube from defroster while down there.
- Set the freezer control to WARM and the refrig control to COLD (THIS SHOULD IMPROVE AIR FLOW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM).
- Put thermometers in top and bottom. Checked that refrigerator cycles (not running continuously). Checked that cold air is coming down from (2) vents behind light.
OK: so far, so good. Lower compartment is 40 or under. Top is under 18.
CONCLUSION: Suspect marginal design. Had problems with another similar model where defroster ice doesn't drain correctly, pools and refreezes. Leading to blocked vents as well as blocked defroster drain and similar problem including dripping water from top to bottom and warm bottom.
MAYBE KEEPING THE FREEZER CONTROL AT WARM GETS AROUND THE PROBLEM?? ANYWAY, ITS WORKING FOR ME FOR NOW !!
you could find ice behind the back panel - worth a check. however the problem is probably ice in the return vent from fridge to freezer and the only way to cure is to switch off and leave for a day with doors open. if im right and you try this, if it re-occurs you may have a problem with the defrost system