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Posted on Sep 22, 2008
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Side by Side Maytag Frig/Freezer Frig not cooling

Model is MSD2356AEW, about ten years old. The coils in back of freezer
are icing up bad. Thus frig is not cooling properly. I suspect the defrost
mechanism isn't working? Is this a costly fix? Any other possible reasons
for what causes this? I've been removing the inside panel and using a hair
dryer to deice the coils. It's only been a week and they are iced up again.


Due to the age of the appliance, I'm wondering if it more cost-effective to
fix it or just purchase a new appliance.

2 Answers

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  • Posted on Sep 22, 2008
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Hello momeddy41,
I'm Huuum to your rescue.

Is your freezer packed to the top, and covering any air ducts near the back of the freezer?
The freezer and fridge share the air and if the circulation from the freezer to the fridge is cut off ,
this could cause problems.
Or you may just need a shot of coolant to raise the pressure in the coil.
It's not necessarily wise to spend a lot of money on an old fridge over 7 years old.
But*** it's better to try one service call and find out if it is one of the many simple things first, as I showed you. Then you would ne saving the price of a new fridge for awhile!
That's your call.

Here is an interesting report I just read!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator

It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.


If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.


Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not forget to give me a rating before you sign off!
Bless You, Thank You, HUUUM

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  • Posted on Apr 01, 2009
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I have a Maytag, side by side model MSD2356AE, purchased approx. 9 years ago, ice-maker malfunctioned from the beginning, was replaced by Maytag with a 'retro-kit'. Worked for about a year, then malfunctioned again.
The refrigerator area freezes up on the bottom shelf. Then sides of door become hot, after that, refrigerator will not cool.
Now I have a problem with the refrigerator leaking onto my wood floor. I have been told that this model is NOT included in the recall.
I usually use a hair dryer aimed at the bottom vent/coils in the freezer to 'fix' the problem, and we no longer use the ice-maker- the water supply has been turned off.
I do the hair-dryer thing until the refridgerator starts to cool.

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Maytag side by side msd264rheb freezer works frig isn't cold. We found ice on bottom freezer side and did melt it with a hair dryer. Frig vent is letting in, now a little cool air, but not a lot.

If you found ice in the freezer then there is usually a lot more behind the back plate. If you let it defrost completely it should work good for a couple days until the ice builds up again. you more than likely have a deefrost issue. There are usually nthree components in a typical defrost circiut. The heater, defrost thermostat and a defrost timer or control. one or those is bad.
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My frig is running but not cooling - frig is 50 degrees,freezer 40 degrees, cleaned the coils,etc GE side by side coils in bottom if frig side feel cool, "box" between freezer and frig side is not blowing...

I can help you diagnose the problems with your GE. Several things can cause these symptoms. All you need is a voltage meter patience and a want to, to repair and do it better than a paid technician. In most cases with the PSS26MSRSS the defrost heater is the cause for this. Look into rear of your freezer and back wall. Is Ice or frost building on rear wall? If yes unplug and prepair to remove contents in freezer compartment. Remove rear panel in freezer and use hair dryer to defrost ice until the defrost heater is visible. BRB , Sea Breeze
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I have a Jenn-Air side by side frig. The freezer side cools too cold, the frig side not enough. 2 weeks ago I took all the food out of freezer and noticed ice build up on back. I unplugged unit, let it...

If the freezer is staying cold it sounds like a defrost system problem. A bad timer, heater or thermostat can cause frost to build up on the coils and block air flow to the refrig side. Check out ACMEHowTo.com for troubleshooting the defroster problem.
There is a small duct between the freezer and refrigerator side if this is blocked the frig side won't cool.
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We have a 8 year old Maytag Side by side model MZD2766GEW and the fidge side doesn't stay cold, just cool. The freezer works fine and there isn't any frost. Any idea what we need to do? Thank you, Greg

For those who had the control board replaced or are experiencing the frig side warming while the freezer side continues freezing; The problem may (still) be a faulty control board. I fixed the issue by replacing a $1.00 capacitor on the board. I'm not a techy and it wasn't too difficult to solder. More info on what to do here; DIY Chatroom

In the mean time, there is ice forming behind the back panel in the lower section of the freezer. This blocks airflow to the frig side.
I use a pump pressure garden sprayer with hot water to defrost the coils. Gets the job done in 20 minutes and I don't have to worry about defrosting items in the freezer.
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Frig not getting cold

See if the coils are blocked with ice. Fridge gets cold air from freezer, ice would prevent this thus a warm fridge.
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Freeze will not freeze.

I had a similar problem. The frost in the back is an indication that your coils are frozen. This could be from food packages falling out of the freezer drawers in the back and blocking the air circulation vents or maybe the freezer door was not closed completely and letting moist/humid air in and freezing the coils.
For me it was the first problem listed.I had to completely empty the freezer and Frig. and take the back panel off in the freezer. There you will see the coils and lots of ice!
1. Remove all items from the frig. and freezer and unplug frig.
2. Pull all the freezer drawers out.
3. On my GE side by side I took the light cover off and removed the bulb. There you will see two panel screws. Remove the screws.
4. Now pull out the mouldings on each side and you should be able to remove the panel.
5. Take a hair drier and completely defrost all the ice from the coils.
Be sure to keep plenty of towels handy for all the water mess. Remember to keep an eye on the drain tray in the back of the frig. and use a sponge to collect the water that will build up.
Hope this helps!.....
Woody
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Frig not cooling

Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items.
  • if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 

Mike  
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Maytag side by side freezer ice build up

I HAVE A MSD2454GRW, 23.5 CU, MAYTAG AND ICE BUILDS UP ON THE FLOOR OF THE FREEZER TO A POINT WHERE IT RUNS ON THE FLOOR. CAN CLEAN IT OUT AND 12-15 HOURS LATER, ITS BACK.
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Frig section not cooling and at time appears to stop but freezer is ok

There is one compressor, condenser and evaporator in all refrigerators. The part that makes the cold inside the unit is the evaporator. It's in the freezer, behind a barrier on the back wall. It's a "coil" with many small fins. There is a fan that blows air over the evaporator which makes the air cold. This air comes from the freezer and stays in the freezer. The cold food section (the refrigerator) has a control that opens a hole for air to pass from the freezer to the fridge. This being said...you can rule out the "temperature control" for the fridge.

The sound you hear could be the compressor relay, the evaporator fan or maybe something else. It could be bad, it could be not too bad. (Like a fan blade a bit unbalanced with dust)

OK,,, back to the evaporator. There is a little heater next to the coil that turns on every 8 hours or so to defrost the coil. That's called the "defrost cycle". Makes sense, no? If the defrost timer (common problem) or defrost control board (common problem) go bad, your evaporator coil freezes up, and that's not good for anything in your refrigerator. But it can often keep the freezer section cold. You can easily disassemble the evaporator cover in the back of the freezer and take a look. If it looks like a block of ice, you probably have a defrost issue. An even, thin coat of frost is OK, but lots of ice is a no no.
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Frig side by side problem

I rolled the frig forward enough so I could unplug the power cord from the outlet. Then
I removed the freezer back panel and found the evaporator coils completely encased in frost. I used hot water in a 20 ounce sqeezable water bottle to remove the caked frost from the coils. I used the back panel as a chute to route the water into a large square bucket I placed on the floor right in front of the freezer. I then disconnected the defrost heater and checked continuity with my meter on the Rx1 scale. Meter needle did not move when connected across the heater indicating that the heater was bad. Called the local parts supplier and gave them the numbers off the old part. They had it in stock for $27.31 so went and picked it up, plugged it in, put in the mounting screws, replaced the freezer back panel, and plugged the frig in. I turned both the freezer and frig thermostats to their normal position. Four hours after my better half got all the food back in the freezer and the frig, the temperature in the refrigerator was 36 degrees.
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