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If the cooker has been working on lighter gauge wiring for a long time and then worked for a short while on thicker cable, it may be due to a failing or failed element. With the bigger cable, its just been taking longer to trip out.
Most major manufacturers supply manuals
online so if you were to log on to the manufacturer's web site, you
may be pleasantly surprised as usually, if available, one is able to
download, by model number, Customer
Instruction Manuals, Dealer
Network for spare part supplies as
If 1 of the plates is not working at all, then it is going to be the plate itself, or a faulty regulator, you will have to take it apart to check the plate.
The other plate that you cannot control, needs the regulator replacing.
Remove hotplate and oven control knobs. Under the 2nd and 5th knobs is an extra screw which holds on the front cover. Unscrew these and free the cover then access is gained to the screws (2 on each edge) which removes the plate to which the regulators are fixed.Remove the faulty regulator by unscrewing it from the plate,(2 screws) It is an easy job then to install the new part taking care to put the correct wires on the correct terminals. Reassemble, job done!
Hotplate heating up when regulator/selector switched off. Hi ,this is gil1714 in Scotland. Two possibilities on this one, 1) the regulator is faulty:- replace 2) if the control circuit (regulator) is wired on the neutral side the hotplate may be leaking current to earth, thereby completing the circuit. This would only occur on a supply that was not protected by an RCD. If so replace hotplate. Hope this is useful,
Hi many thanks for your reply ,I suspected that a charge may be applicable for your guidance of how repair the Fault . Hence enough money spent as I was not happy with the wiring of the appliance as it would not have passed a P.A.T. . I have purchased a New Cooker Model DW531 as the appliance is for my Disabled Brother & his Wife (Trade Price )