Question about Whirlpool GHW9400 Duet Washer

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Standing water in a Duet when turned off...


We have found our Duet waster with water in the drum twice now. It was turned off and the water was not there when the clothes were removed.

I have a pressure reducing valve set to 80 psi. The washer is being fed very close to the water main.

Do I need to replace the fill valve? Can you provide help with where to get one and steps to complete this?

Thank you...

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  • jeffjob Sep 22, 2008


    Very helpful! Thank you very much.

    I was thinking while I am replacing the fill valve, (the Duet is 5 years old) it may be a good time to replace the supply hoses. Do you recommend braided steel hoses?

    Also, do you have any suggestions for a single handle shut off valve? We are used to leaving the water on all the time, is that OK?

    And lastly, is 80 lbs of water pressure to much for the Duet? We added a big addition and keeping the PRV at 80 helps the pressure down stream.

    Thank yoy...

  • yinglingj Dec 03, 2008

    I am having the very same problem. I did a little investigative work and found that if I shut off the cold water valve, it does not happen, so it is definetly coming from that side. do both hot and cold have seperate fill valves?

  • wachnr Apr 02, 2009

    I have the same problem on my Whirlpool Duet Washer GHW9400PW0 which is manufactured in Germany. After the washer stands for several hours water starts to fill in the laundry basket. It is a slow leak however if the cold water valve is not shut off it will continue to leak and eventually spill out of the front door and on the floor. Unfortuately for us this problem occured when we were on vacation and we had a flood of water when we returned home. Has there been a recall on this problem?I will try replacing the fill valve to see if this corrects the problem.



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More than likely you have a fill valve problem. This is the only component that controls the turning on or shutting off of water thats between the dispenser tube and the fill hoses . You also may have a condition known as "siphoning" that can cause this. The following link explains:

Normally this condition is associated with a washer that cannot retain a sufficient water level and constantly drains. It can also cause back flow from the drain too. Just something to consider.

If you're sure its not a simple installation issue on your drain hose placement, take a look at the dispenser tube thats located in the rubber door bellow. A tale-tell sign of inlet valve leak by is a small trickle or drip of water coming from the dispenser tube. It may not be readily noticeable, but can show up as water sitting in the bottom of the spin basket over time. NOTE: It is NORMAL to have residual water between the spin basket and outer tub shell. This water, however, should not be at a level where it is visible inside the basket when the tub is empty.

Now, if you decide to replace the water inlet valve, a replacement can be ordered on line at Just type in your COMPLETE model number and look for item number 1 (part #8181694) under the "Dispenser Parts" heading. To replace the valve, follow these steps:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply. Disconnect fill hoses from back of washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the screws that hold it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.
3. The water inlet valve is located in the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) and electrical connectors from the valve.
4. Remove the mounting screws that holds the inlet valve in place.
5. Reinstall with a replacement valve using the above steps in reverse order.

It's that simple. This is not a difficult repair at all, and its not that expensive. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance let me know.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 22, 2008

    Yes, the stainless steel hoses are good and they last (I believe) about 20 years. I think there's another composite type of hose on the market that has a mesh type of sheathing over the rubber hose that is comparable to the stainless steel. I apologize for not being able to recall what is was made of, but I know that it lasts just as long and may cost less. Any appliance repair part retailer will carry an array of hoses. Pay attention to the psi rating.

    A cut-off valve is a good idea, but you can also do the same thing by simply turning the water source off at the taps. That would save you from re-plumbing or from buying an expensive auto-shut off valve. Leaving the taps on all the time does not generally cause any problems (mine have been on for years). There are claims that the constant pressure of leaving the water on causes hose fatigue, but I've very seldom seen this. The hose fatigue I've experienced has been caused by dry rotting of the rubber as they age. The dry rot, coupled with pressure is what normally causes the hoses to fail. However, if you plan on leaving town on vacation, I would strongly recommend shutting off the water source for every appliance that has one. This includes dishwashers, washing machines, and the ice maker in your freezer. No one wants to come home to find their floors standing in water. I've seen this happen on several occasions, and the burden usually falls on the home owner to pay for the damages out of pocket. Unless there is something grossly negligent in the way the appliance was manufactured, it is usually considered the fault of the consumer. The burden of proof is usually very hard to determine unless you have a reliable repairman willing to back you up. Just wanted to shed some light on that if it ever became an issue.

    The minimum water pressure should be between 10-25 psi. The maximum water pressure is usually dependent upon the type hose you have. Some hoses have a very high test rating (psi in the hundreds), but have a nominal (or safe) pressure of about 60-80 psi. I think you may be okay with the water pressure you have. I hope this helps you.



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