Question about Optoma EP719 XGA DLP PROJECTOR 2000L 2500:1 CONT DVI-D WITH HDCP Multimedia Projector
There is a stuffed 10v 3300uf capacitor on the power board. You need to replace it.
Bellow you can check in the picture where the capacitor is located.
Notice that in this picture I have already took the bad capacitor out and replaced with two small cords to reach the bottom and test the new capacitor.
To reach this place is not fast, several layers of plastic and metal must be removed, but is not a hard task to take the capacitor out and replace it for another.
It works just great! Now it is back on track with awesome image.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
The Optoma EP719, also known as the DX605 when purchased at TigerDirect, has been a great projector. But, I can't figure out why they installed a capacitor that has a shorter life expectancy than two lamps (or at least not make it replaceable too).
Mostly likely, you will find the capacitor in question has "bulged". This would cause your projector to slowly stop powering up over time, with each effort taking more and more time.
You will need to replace a "10V, 3300 uf HIGH TEMPERATURE or HT"CAPACITOR. It is a 10 cent part, plus shipping, should cost no more that $5.
Replacing is not difficult if you know how to wield a solder gun in a tight squeeze. But getting to the spot will take quite a bit of time.
Level of Difficulty = about 25 screws and tabs, and 5 cables.
Take out the bulb first. You will be making lots of movements on the unit and the less the bulb gets tossed and turned the better. Also, make sure the projector has been off for a very long time, components can still be slightly charged even if off. and unplugged.
You will need to remove the case (do not forget to remove the center screw deep from the bottom exterior). The case has about 10 tabs in addition to the screws. Use a flat edge to carefully nudge the tabs loose. Once removed, carefully pull back the tiny tab connecting the ribbon cable to the exterior button panel, pull out the ribbon cable. Make sure you note which direction the leads are showing so when you reconnect, you line it up the same.
Remove the heat shielding.
Remove the top circuit board. Note that it is not only secured with screws, but also with a PC style slot connection to a PC board upright directly beneath. You need to make sure when reassembling, you make a secure connection back here.
Remove the elevated PC board that is mounted on a black plastic riser. There will be ribbon connectors and power cables that need to be disconnected.
Access the lowest board that has the power supply on it. After removing a couple screws, you should be able to lift this straight up, and work on this board without interference.
With the power plug/mains to the left, the capacitor in question is to the right. Carefully remove any white glue that holds is used to separate the capacitor from other components. You can now just force twist the cap out, and the leads will be left in place.
You now have two choices. You can solder leads to the existing ones to connect the new cap (but you'll need to find space to place the cap when all is put back together, and it is a tight squeeze. OR, you can remove the leads with a solder gun and a tug, open the holes a wee bit with a very tiny drill (I used a super heated sewing pin to clear it out) on the PC board, put in the new cap and solder. Careful with the solder gun, the other components on the flip side should not be compromised. NOTE:When installing, make sure the NEG lead faces to the right (outside edge) of the PC board.
Assemble it all back and hope you don't have any screws left over!
post by Jeff Reid
thanks to Morris Burch for teaching me as a kid how to solder!
Posted on Aug 19, 2012
I had the same problem where the power light would blink and pressing the power button wouldn't do anything. This actually happened to me twice and I fixed it the same way both times. I pretty much took everything apart so I could see the capacitor (like the photo above). I had to unscrew a lot of screws and unplug a lot of connectors, just remember how everything goes. At this point with everything apart, I just put everything back together and plugged it in and voila!!! It works. Like I said, I did this twice and it worked both times. I didn't replace anything or really fix anything. I think it could've been some connections that needed to get reset by unplugging and then plugging them back in. NOTE: I did try to see if the capacitor had a bulge, but it looked fine so I put it back together and now it works. Hope this works for you and please let people know if it does.
Posted on Jul 22, 2012
I am troubleshooting the exact same problem on this model of projector right now. There is a short in parallel to R211 which is traced back to pin2 of the keypad jumper.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
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