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Honeywell AWH 629QE A The electronics in the heatpump is broken after that a lightning struck down near us. Are possible to get a new electronic card and schematic so a can fix the heatpump? Ing Tony E in Sweden

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shastalaker7
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SOURCE: TROUBLE REPLACING OEM TIMER - UNIVERSAL ELECTRONIC FAN TIMER

Hi, you should be real close with the universal timer and the factory OEM. On the new control board, if you have 24 volts to the board, you should have 24 volts from R to ground or to Common. I know that on most all control boards the voltage in is 120volts as you will have terminals for L-1 and L-2 to run the high voltage controls from the board and all of the thermostat control terminals in a row, R,G,Y, W, C, and so on are 24 volts. 120 volts is stepped down to 24volts control and you say you have nothing out. Make sure you have 120volts in. You are calling this a timer board, is this a heat-pump defrost board with the 3 settings and pin to defrost the unit at 30,60,and 90 minute times? This is what it sounds like. If all was terminated per diagram, you would have the 24 volts required to fire this unit. These defrost timer boards require high voltage to them as well. Even though the board is a new board and you know for a fact that it is wired properly, it may be a defective board. I have seen this many times in my years as a tech. I have shorted new boards out by static electricity and by mis- wiring one. You can kill power and look at the back side of the board to see if this has happened. Sometimes you will find that they missed a solder point on the back side not completing a circuit through the board. To give you more ideas, I would need to see the diagram, or if you could send me the model, serial, and name of your unit. The board number would help also. Check out what I have said and get back to me on this. I will wait to hear.
Shastalaker7

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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Hi, you should be real close with the universal timer and the factory OEM. On the new control board, if you have 24 volts to the board, you should have 24 volts from R to ground or to Common. I know that on most all control boards the voltage in is 120volts as you will have terminals for L-1 and L-2 to run the high voltage controls from the board and all of the thermostat control terminals in a row, R,G,Y, W, C, and so on are 24 volts. 120 volts is stepped down to 24volts control and you say you have nothing out. Make sure you have 120volts in. You are calling this a timer board, is this a heat-pump defrost board with the 3 settings and pin to defrost the unit at 30,60,and 90 minute times? This is what it sounds like. If all was terminated per diagram, you would have the 24 volts required to fire this unit. These defrost timer boards require high voltage to them as well. Even though the board is a new board and you know for a fact that it is wired properly, it may be a defective board. I have seen this many times in my years as a tech. I have shorted new boards out by static electricity and by mis- wiring one. You can kill power and look at the back side of the board to see if this has happened. Sometimes you will find that they missed a solder point on the back side not completing a circuit through the board. To give you more ideas, I would need to see the diagram, or if you could send me the model, serial, and name of your unit. The board number would help also. Check out what I have said and get back to me on this. I will wait to hear.
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