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Re: electric washing machine
To make sure of the time that the device will switch on/off or cycle
in use the armature rotates approximately 1 rev/hour, slowed down by a multi stage gearbox, & multiplied in force by the same factor
the switches are 1/2 ounce pressure,
there is no difficulty with timer motor being able to move the switches
do not file them 'smooth' it causes difficulty with program shifts
(have done it, once, only once, never again)
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Washing machines use timers to set fill and empty cycles. These have micro-switches that contact cams turned by the timer motor. Cams are circular metal discs with high points and low points. Something is probably misaligned. You usually can manually turn the timer control. If you turn it directly to the empty cycle and the fill valve opens, then the micro-switch controlling the fill valve is not contacting' the cam. It may just require bending the bracket holding the micro-switc.h so that it will contact the cam
That plastic wheel has humps on it. The small copper winding is a motor that turns that wheel. As them humps on the wheel travel around slowly they open or close those points which power up the water valves motor and such. This type timer is not serviceable and cannot be repaired. You must purchase another.
Washing machines are built, sealed so that water or any other liquid that enters into the drums, dryer compartments will be isolated and not penetrate to the electrical system of the unit. There are protections to the motors installed beneath. To give you an idea, a motor mostly installed on it is a split-capacitor single phase motor which is protected by a fuse, thermal overload sensor to prevent burning the winding. A possibilty of electrical burning smells is that, a possibility that the thermal protection of the motor winding didn't open or activate. So that the winding may have been burnt and i'm sure your machine will stop immediately. There is also that timers which are cam driven, there is a strip on the timers and switching between clockwise and counterclockwise rotationion is done here. There is also a possibility that this switches strip may have been warp and burning would have occured due to uneven contact points already, carbonization inside this switches would take place, and your machine would stop. I hope this will help, thanks
The cycle selector is not engaged onto the timer shaft. Need to remove the on/off knob by removing the plastic "U" clip. Remove the cycle selctor knob and check that the steel spring clip on the selector is fully seated. Re-install the cycle selector onto the timer shaft aligning the selector key with the with tthe notch on the timer shaft. Re-install the on/off knob.
The cycle selector and on/off combination is a poor design. Users press the on/off knob in and turn clockwise to set the wash cycle. If you're not gentle this action wears the teeth on the timer shaft and the user has to press harder and harder to set the wash cycle. This pressing causes the cycle selector to be pushed off the timer shaft and you can no longer operate the machine.
Stop using the on/off knob to set the wash cycle. Press on the cycle selector to set the wash cycle. Use the on/off knob only for starting or stopping the machine. Don't press or pull too hard on the on/off knob or you will wind up pushing the cycle selector off the timer shaft.
A timer consists of vertical cams (disks with pieces missing that sit on a horizontal shaft, the shaft is powered by a very slow geared down AC electric motor as the motor turns; lever switches above and, below the cams ride upon the cams opening and closing to program the machine to fill, agitate etc. the length of the cutout in the irregular disk (cam) is the lengh of time a certain procedure or,device i.e. a spin cycle, or, solenoid takes or, is activated and, it's corresponding switch is closed. All machines come with a small packet usually mounted inside the control center that has a frequency and, duration chart for the timer. this will show you the conectors on the timer that should be closed at a certain time in the cycle you can then manually turn the timer to the spot wher the meter should read continuity The most offen encountered problems with timers are burned switch contacts and, dead timer motors.
its a steel plate in the shape of a triangle each point has a notch which should line up with each posts of the base asm have someone help you by pulling the tub asm straight up to take the weight off so it will be easier to repostion suspension plate be careful of sharp edges
sounds like the timer needs a little assistance to get "over the hump". perhaps many cam switches must be switched at his point of cam rotation.
if machine is getting old, then attempt to lubricate the electric motor that turns the timer mechanism. also lube the shaft bushings for the timer cam plate as well if possible.