Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Plastic inside door is shredding apart

When you pull the rubber seal back from around the opening of the machine, there are pieces of plastic that are shredded and coming off from the inside (where the socks get stuck).  I imagine this would require a replacement did this happen? this a common problem?   .. how can I stop it from happening in the future?

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  • jcoates325 Oct 18, 2008

    I have the same problem did you have someone fix itand how much


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Hello kwheersink

Make sure you are not using to much detergent.
You should be using HE, or High Efficiency Detergent.
And only the amount that the manual for the washer tells you.
To much and it will slowly destroy your Seal and bearing. Plus any rubber or plastic parts it comes into contact with.
Definitely replace this now!!
How old is the washer?

Let me know how you do and the answers about your detergent habits.
Waiting your response.
Thank You Huuum
Please remember to leave a rating!

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • yasmani01 Jan 16, 2015

    Hello Neil, I have th efollowing issue: Hello, my Whirlpool Duet washer started making a noise at the end of the spinning cicle and when down to check it and I notticed that there are pieces of plastic shreeding from behing rhe rubber sealing the door. when I try to spin it by hand make noise and it also move up and down and side ways. what could that be


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We have water leaking out of the front of our washer not from the door but from just below the door. Is all over the floor??

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Jan 29, 2011 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Hello: I have a Whirlpool GHW9400PL0 front loading washer. When I look under the front seal looks like an inner stainless tub inside a plastic tub. The edge of the plastic tub is all chewed up and machine...

if you contact whirlpool they might help but the bearings that help that stainless steel drum spin smoothly are gone and because its bounced around a bit it shredded the plastic tank its about $400 for the parts to do this job and every single part comes off and back on it takes experienced guys that do them every day about 2 hours of struggle and pain to do it. i would highly reccomend a new machine in this case.not worth it

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Spin cycle comes on but unit won't spin at all or very slow. also ther is some oil under gear box

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities: since it will spin. None of the suggestions are very expensive.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.


Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

If you pull the gearcase, you may see oil around the top cover.

You can remove the 8 bolts carefully (It holds 15 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil) and re-seal the cover. I'd also check the plastic seal between the clutch and gearcase that keeps oil from leaking from the top of the gearcase.

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I change the coupler of a kenmore washer, but when i starter to work again, there is a noice, kind a ruber noice.

I'd pull the cabinet and check the coupler again.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

If you havn't completely seated the plastic pieces, the rubber can be damaged and you'd hear/smell rubber burning.

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1 Answer

My washing machine won't open and the rubber piece around the opening is off

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If you are referring to the door bellow (gray rubber seal around the perimeter of the door), the following link explains how to reinstall/or replace:

Sometimes, the bellow clamps can come loose and pop the seal off. If the seal is not damaged it may be reused. If you require replacement parts, you can purchase them from any of the following websites and save a little from retail:

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare.

NOTE: Overloading the washer can contribute to premature wear of the door bellow. Overloading can also cause items to get lodged in the door bellow and pull it loose.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back with your model number. I hope this helps you.

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After my washer spends the rubber comes

Do you mean the door seal has come loose.

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Check down from the top of the machine and feel around the door seal. Make sure there are no holes or tears in the seal. Try and refit seal. there is a metal ring around the drum and also around the front panel where the door seal joins. Make sure the are tight and fit in properly.

Let me know if I didnt understand the problem.

Good luck.

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I've never had a smell problem like this before, but I have had the rubber lining to the door "shred", leaving eraser shavings all over the laundry. This happened with my first HE3t and I complained at SEARS and they just sent out a brand new replacement. About a month or two later, the same thing happened. I had SEARS come out and replace that rubber seal, and haven't had a problem since.

Although I can't answer on the smell, I highly suggest you keep an eye out for shavings on your laundry. Also, with the door open, at the bottom you can pull back the rubber seal slightly and expose the drain to be sure nothing is clogged or getting caught in there.

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Rubber Seal not Sealing

This seems to be a common problem with front loaders, but there is an easy fix if you follow these simple steps:

1. The rubber seal fits over the lip around the door opening. Carefully seat the rubber seal all the way around the door opening first.
2. Then, place the wire hoop in the crease where the rubber seal fits over the lip. Insert the hoop with the spring pointing at the bottom. Starting at the top and work your way around the door opening to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions.
3. While holding the hoop in place, stretch the spring apart enough to allow the rest of the hoop to snap into the crease at the bottom of the door opening. You may need a second pair of hands to help you with this.

 Good luck and I hope this helps you.

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