Gear grind when you try to put in forward or reverse gear?

HAVE YOU CHECKED YOUR REVERSE GEAR LINKAGE?

It may just need servicing/adjusting.

Your reverse gear is actually first gear ... when you select reverse another 'cog' fits into the toothed wheels to change the direction of first gear ... to give you reverse...

It may be a sticky valve or just a bit of adjustment (workshop job..) that is required.

What you can try ..

Start the car ... move the lever through all the positions several times (foot on brake..). Keep your foot on the brake and then put it in reverse and rev the car. Hard!

Try doing it several times.

An auto transmission works on valves opening and closing. Reverse gear - in comparison with the forward gears - is seldom used. The reverse valve can 'stick'. Try forcing it to open ... frighten it ... but keep your foot on the brake...

post a video in comment

Reverse is not "synchronized" forward gears are, so it does make some noise, try shifting to 2nd before engaging reverse to slow gear rotation and limit gear clash or grind.

There is no syncro mesh for reverse gear. However, if you put the car in 3rd gear before engaging reverse, it should go in every time. Good luck..

If it is an automatic transmission, first check the fluid level. If it is low, fill it up and try it again. If the level is fine, then there is a bigger issue and you should seek a professional's help.

Check the oil trans filter. Could either be a bad linkage, or a bum synchro. Does it just flat not go into gear, or does it grind when you try to do it? Can you put it in reverse with the engine off?

I dont know exactly witch is you tranny; it sound like you broke the sun shell in the transmission.

For example, this is pretty common with the Chevvorlet 4l60e Transmission, when the sun shell breaks you will lose reverse and fourth gear, the only remedy is to replace the transmssion or have it repaired; the repair will require the transmission be removed and disassembled, you will need to purchase a new sun shell (get a heavy duty replacement) and a papper rubber kit for the repair, just find a good trans guy to provide the labor.

Hope this help.

TRANSMISSION FLUIDS CAN BE CAUSED BY ONLY A COUPLE OF THINGS. MOST COMMON BEING A WORN OR BROKEN SEAL. THE TRANSMISSION SEALS ON MOST CARS ARE MADE FROM RUBBER OR METAL. BEING IN ALL KIND OF EXTREME TEMPS FOR YEARS ON END NOT TO MENTION THE PARTS MOVING AROUND THEM WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE LEAKS. ALSO FAULTY INSTALLATION (OF A SEAL) CAN ALSO CAUSE A LEAK TO HAPPEN. THE ONLY OTHER THING THAT CAN CAUSE A LEAK TO MY KNOWLEGE WOULD BE IF YOU BOTTOMED OUT A CAR LOW ENOUGH THAT IT CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE TRANS CASE OR PAN. One cause of grinding when shifting into reverse is improper adjustment of the clutch linkage. If the adjustment is correct when the clutch is depressed the gears should stop turning and eliminate the grinding. Make sure there is some free play in the linkage when the clutch is not depressed. Most manual transmissions do not have a sychronized reverse gear. When you try to go into reverse from neutral, the transmission countershaft (which is linked to the pilot shaft) is still turning. The main shaft (which is linked to the tailshaft) is not turning. Therefore, since there is no sychronizer (or clutch brake like on a heavy truck tranny) the sliding cluctch gear (splined to the main shaft) grinds against the main shaft gear (floating over the main shaft but meshing its respecive countershaft gear through the reverse idler). The slider's function is to lock the main shaft gear to the main shaft thereby transmitting power to the rear wheels in the desired gear ratio (depending on which main shaft gear is locked to the main shaft). The way to cure this is to select a forward gear to stop the transmission and then go to reverse, all the while holding the clutch down. If it still won't go into gear you can either slip the clutch ever so slightly to "bump" the gears while gently pushing the stick into reverse (not too hard!! you can bend or break forks!! OUCH!!) or go into neutral, let the clutch all the way out, go into a forward gear and then reverse.

What you describe sounds very much like the clutch is failing to disengage.
Fluid level being fine and no leaks under the car is good, but doesnt mean there isnt something wrong with either the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or the associated parts.

Highly unlikely there is a fault with the flywheel or clutch as failures with these would normally give no drive in any gear.

stop shifting so hard. your reverse gear is the same exact gear as your first, so if you shift hard and grind that gear a little then reverse will be harder to get into. you probably need your transmission rebuilt the harder your engine has to work the more its going to bogg down