Internal spring shaft locking clip broken???? Tool made loud noises. Thought bearing bad, but after dissasembly found small spring clip which holds shaft when changing bits by pressing down on pin is parted. It's possible this clip is supposed to be this way, but how do I reassemble unit if so?

Question edited for clarity, translate to English and into what I think you thought you were saying!
Question moved to model category.

Yes, input shaft bearing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Daewoo+Lanos+Transmission+bearings

What does a bad transmission bearing sound like?
If you hear a humming noise in all gears, you may be dealing with a worn or damaged shaft or bearing. If you hear a growling noise specifically while moving, it is usually caused by a bad input shaft bearing. If that's the case, you will be able to hear grinding in any gear, at any engine speed.

Whining and Other Noises When Shifting Gears - Mister Transmission

Sounds like the bearings are toast. These machines have a poor seal in the tub which allows water to penetrate the bearings, drying/rusting them out. Go on "youtube" and search your problem. I use a 2"X4" and a jack on the center shaft to lift the drum out. Bearing tool and shaft/bearing, seal kit is approx. $150. Should take you approx. 4 hrs. if you're handy.

Adjustment

1. Place parking brake lever in -full released- position.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel.
4. Through the access hole, rotate the adjuster star wheel in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum:
   1. Left brake - Rotate star-wheel toward rear of vehicle.
   2. Right brake - Rotate star-wheel toward front of vehicle.
5. Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
6. Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
7. Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock.
8. Install access plug.
9. Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.

Removal & Installation NOTE The following procedure may be used to remove shoes on either side of the vehicle.

1. Lock out automatic adjuster in parking brake lever.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Access and remove rear hub and bearing.
4. Remove parking brake cable bolt at knuckle.
5. Completely back off parking brake shoe adjustment.
6. Remove parking brake shoe adjuster spring.
7. Remove shoe adjuster.
8. Remove upper brake shoe hold-down clip and pin.
9. Remove lower brake shoe hold-down clip and pin.
10. Remove upper and lower shoes with return spring from shoe actuator.
11. Remove return spring from shoes.
    
    

    Fig. View of the actuator (1), support (2), adjuster spring (3), return spring (4), caliper adapter (5), shoes (6), hold-down clips and pins (7) and adjuster (8)
    

To install:

1. Install return spring between upper and lower shoes.
   NOTE Before installing shoes on actuator, make sure actuator hooked to rear cable is positioned with word -UP- facing outward.
2. Install upper and lower shoes with return spring on shoe actuator located on parking brake cable.
3. Install lower brake shoe hold-down pin through rear of support and lower shoe, then install hold-down clip.
4. Install upper brake shoe hold-down pin through rear of support and upper shoe, then install hold-down clip.
5. Install shoe adjuster. Place end of adjuster with star wheel upward.
6. Install parking brake shoe adjuster spring.
7. Install bolt securing parking brake cable to knuckle and tighten bolt to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
8. Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool C-3919, or equivalent, measure inside diameter of parking brake drum portion of rotor.
9. Place Gauge over parking brake shoes at widest point.
10. Using adjuster star wheel, adjust parking brake shoes until linings on both park brake shoes just touch jaws on gauge. This will give a good preliminary adjustment of parking brake shoes, before a final adjustment is made at end of this procedure.
11. Install hub and bearing with wheel speed sensor as well as all components necessary to access it.
12. Lower vehicle.
13. Unlock automatic adjuster in parking brake lever.
14. Perform final adjustment of parking brake shoes

15. 
    Adjustment This vehicle is equipped with permanently sealed rear wheel bearings. There is no periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended for these units.
    

    
    Removal & Installation

    1. Raise and support vehicle.
    2. Remove wheel mounting nuts, then tire and wheel assembly.
    3. If equipped with AWD:
       1. Remove cotter pin, nut lock and spring washer from half shaft.
       2. While a helper applies brakes to keep hub from turning, remove hub nut and washer.
    4. Remove brake caliper and rotor from hub and bearing assembly.
       
       

       Fig. Hub assembly
       

    5. Disconnect vehicle wiring harness connector at wheel speed sensor connector.
    6. Unclip wheel speed sensor connector from spare tire mounting support.
    7. Disconnect two sensor cable routing clips on rear suspension crossmember.
    8. Disconnect two sensor cable routing clips along toe link.
    9. Disconnect sensor cable from bracket on brake support.
       
       
    10. Completely loosen, but do not remove four bolts fastening hub and bearing in place. Once loosened from threads in hub and bearing, push bolts up against rear of hub and bearing to keep brake support plate in place when hub and bearing is removed.
        
        

        Fig. Rear hub and bearing mounting bolts
        

    11. Pull hub and bearing off knuckle and half shaft (if equipped with AWD), then thread wheel speed sensor cable through hole in brake support plate as it is removed with hub and bearing.
        
        
    To install:
    
    1. Position hub and bearing bolts though rear of knuckle and parking brake support just enough to hold support in place as hub and bearing is installed.
    2. Install hub and bearing by first feeding end of wheel speed sensor cable through hole in bottom of parking brake support. As this is being done, if equipped with AWD, slide hub and bearing onto half shaft. Place hub and bearing through brake support, onto knuckle, lining up mounting bolt holes with bolts and placing wheel speed sensor head at bottom.
    3. Install four bolts fastening hub and bearing in place. Tighten mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
    4. Place wheel speed sensor cable routing grommet into bracket on parking brake support.
    5. Route wheel speed sensor cable along toe link and rear suspension crossmember connecting routing clips where shown.
    1. Connect vehicle wiring harness to wheel speed sensor connector.
    2. Install brake rotor and caliper.
    3. If equipped with AWD:
       1. Install washer and hub nut on end of half shaft.
       2. While a helper applies brakes to keep hub from turning, tighten hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm).
       3. Install spring washer, nut lock and cotter pin on end of half shaft.
    4. Install tire and wheel assembly. Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
    
    
    

    
    
    

Various noises can mean various problems.. clacking or whistling sound can be bearings (found at the back of the outer drum), or even the spindle/spider. Loud knocking noise can be shocks, or broken damper springs. Need more info, maybe a indication of when exactly you hear the noise?

* If you found this solution helpful, please vote positively.

Haven't worked on that model in particular, but I'm presuming you're talking about the bottom of the gearbox shaft, dead centre of the w/m underneath. It has a nylon Cam arrangement (?).

If so, you're not alone in having trouble.
They are a right B'Stard to get the circlip back on.
The shaft is sprung, and needs to be pulled out slightly, to see enough of the slot for the cir-clip.
Much easier if the w/m is upside down, but still a pain.
Sometimes, you have to use screwdrivers on 2 sides (approx 120 degrees apart) to lift the shaft & get the circlip started. (Don't stab yourself). Having a 2nd person with you definitely helps.

I changed the roller bearing on one once, struggled & struggled, but found it impossible to get the circlip back on, without removing one of the shim washers.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23032101

First of all, in theory and according to the Whirlpool / Kenmore top load, direct drive service manual, the agitator isn't supposed to spin along with the tub.

There is an agitate cam in the transmission that is supposed to raise a gear above the agitate rack.

Please see the following for a complete description.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

We had essentially the same problem, loud noises when the machine went into spin mode.

We looked at the service manual and the following parts manual for commercial washers (although the consumer models are basically the same) and thought that the "agitate cam" wasn't lifting the gear high enough, probably less than 1/16 of an inch but enough that it was grinding on the main gear.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

We pulled the transmission

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Replaced everything and the noise disapeared.

The agitator may still turn during the agitate mode but this is mainly due to the oil friction between parts.

Visually check the clutch spring (located on the left side of the pickup roller shaft, just before the gear). If the spring is deformed or broken, replace the entire pickup roller shaft. The part you need to order are shown below. You will also need a small 'C' clip. I do not know if the clip comes ith the shaft or the gear...

PA03360-Y110
Pick shaft

PA03360-Y112
Pick Bearing ‘M’

PA03360-Y107
Clutch

PA03360-Y106
Clutch Spring

PA03360-Y105
Pick Gear


Regards,
Eric F.

there is a coupling between the gearbox and the motor, it is broken, it is easy to replace, and inexpensive
the coupler can be purchased at a local parts store
'Kenmore motor/gearbox coupler' will get it for you, there is only on for all the models.
it is an easy fix

• unplug washer
• remove trim ends of control panel
• remove phillips head screws from bottoms of control panel under where trim was
• slide control panel forweard & up about 1 inch, then flip over the back of the control panel, do not dislodge the air hose
• remove brass clips in rear corners of top with screwdriver, remember how they fit
• unplug lid switch connector
• lift body 1inch and slide forward to remove

1. front center is the motor pump and gearbox
2. do NOT disconnect hoses

• remove spring clips holding pump on to motor shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
• swing pump to the left and use a string or bread bag tie to hold it out of the way.
• remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
• heave motor forward, to separate the coupling
• remove coupling halves from gearbox shaft and motor shaft and discard.
• using a wooden dowel and hammer, on the center of the new coupling halves, drive them onto the motor and gearbox shafts, (dont hit the fingers, they break, note the new couplings have metal centres to solve ongoing problems.)
• rotate gearbox coupling, 1 up 2 down
• rotate motor coupling, 2 up 1 down
• install rubber shock pad on gearbox coupling
• install motor on shock pad
• reinstall spring clips and lock screw if fitted (bottom first, rock the motor on rubber shock mount to ease spring clip installation)
• rotate motor shaft to align with pump input
• install pump on motor shaft
• install spring clips and lock screw if fitted

reinstall body in reverse order

it takes less time to do the repair than it takes to type this

STEP BY STEP Please Remember to Rate Me Thank You RejakWilson




WARNING: On vehicles equipped with Airbags, disable airbag system prior to performing service procedures.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove steering wheel as outlined under STEERING WHEEL procedure.
3. Using a screwdriver, pry cover from housing.
4. Using lock plate compressing No. J-23653 or equivalent, compress lock plate, and pry snap ring from groove on shaft, Fig. 5. Slowly release lock plate compressing tool, then remove tool and lock plate from shaft end.
5. Slide canceling cam and upper bearing preload spring from end of shaft.
6. Remove turn signal (multi-function) lever.
7. Remove hazard warning knob retaining screw, button, spring and knob.
8. Remove pivot arm.
9. Wrap upper part of electrical connector with tape to prevent snagging of wires during switch removal.
10. Remove switch retaining screws and pull switch up from column, guiding wire harness through column.
11. Reverse procedure to install.

1. Remove turn signal switch as outlined under TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.
2. Remove buzzer switch and spring clip. On 1990-92 models, ignition key must be removed from lock to remove buzzer switch. On 1991-92 models, switch and spring clip are one assembly.
3. Turn lock cylinder to Run position on 1989 models or Lock position on 1990-92 models, then remove lock cylinder retaining screw and the lock cylinder.
4. To install, rotate lock cylinder to the stop while holding housing. Align cylinder key with keyway in housing, then push lock cylinder into housing until fully seated. Lock cylinder must be in Run position to install buzzer switch.
5. Install lock cylinder retaining screw, then the buzzer switch, turn signal switch and steering wheel.

center bearing that holds the shaft is bad and lets the shaft move