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Kenmore 70 series washing machine

Will not agitate and makes a buzzing noise

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  • sabrinaleigh Sep 20, 2008

    Washer

  • roberd1 May 11, 2009

    washing machine wont agitate or spin, goes through all the cycles , it fills up and drains, just will not spin or agitate. makes a buzzing noise when trying to agitate and spin

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Does not agitate, does it spin? If it doesnt you have a coupler failure. If it does spin then the agitator dogs have worn to the point of no return.

This is the link for a coupler;
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=278912&PPStack=1
The coupler is accessed by pulling the machine out 2 feet and tilting it back to expose the bottom of the machine. Once done follow the pump( has two hoses attached) to the motor and after that is the gearcase. Between the motor and the gearcase is a coupler. There is a small gap between a black plate where the motor attaches and the gearcase.Reach from front to the plate and feel behind it up in the gap. This is where the coupler is and if you feel soft spots or if you try to rotate it and it separates get a flashlight and a friend to spot hold the machine while you crawl under to look at it. You need to look at the white flanges for cracks and push on the flanges while checking. If so this machine is designed to be an easy fix. The pump removes by popping the clips top and bottom as well the motor with the addition of 2 1/4 inch hex screws and a wire harness plug( may have one to three additional wires for a capacitor and a switch, two red and a white wire). Once the motor is off you can see better as to what the damage is... If the coupler falls apart upon removing the motor finish removing it from both sides. When replacing I use a 9 inch extension and a deep well socket about 1/2 in size to seat the flanges flush to the motor and gear case shafts using a small hammer not hitting to hard.
This is the link for the agitator dogs;
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=3109&PPStack=1

For the agitator a sure test is to reach in and rotate the agitator back and forth, it should only go one direction, if it is free then this is the problem.
The dogs are below the softener cup on the agitator,when removed you will see a seal cap that has to be removed. After this you will see a round insert with a 7/16 or 1/2 inch bolt attaching it to the gearcase spindle. once out the agitator assembly will pull out separating into a lower and top half. The top if turned upside down will dump the contents of the agitator dog assembly. These are simple to replace and if there is no retainer, a little vaseline will stick them long enough to re assemble, just watch how they remove and note any fins and notchs use between the upper and lower halfs to align them.

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

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SearsTechTwo had very helpful information, thank you! I did have a broken coupler on my Kenmore 70 Series washing machine and fixed the problem for a total of $18.30. The center hole of the white plastic coupler part that is seated on the motor shaft side had cracked. Fortunately, the replacement part now includes a metal sleeve for that center hole to help prevent cracks in the plastic. Because this was my first appliance repair, I found it easiest to remove the machine to my garage workshop with a hand cart and then lay the hand cart on its side to access the bottom of the machine without working upside down or removing the outer case of the appliance. Removing the water pump clips was easy with a flat screwdriver for leverage. I did not need to disconnect any hoses to slide the pump off the motor shaft and out of the way. It can be supported away from your work area with a large twist tie or string. Removing the motor clips was not hard with a 1/4” socket and a screwdriver. Rather than remove the wire bundles, I used a rag to cushion the wire bundles from chafing on the edges of the frame as I slid the motor out of the way allowing it to gently rest naturally below the work area. Removing the old coupler was easy. The tolerance was not tight at all on the center hole of the white plastic pieces due to years of wear. My mistake was installing the new coupler halves on the transmission shaft and the motor shaft without properly seating them as SearsTechTwo had described. The new part with the metal sleeve in the center hole fits snugly and needs a few taps with a small hammer to be fully seated on the shaft. Approximately 1/4” of movement is needed for the coupler to be properly seated beyond where it would lie with finger pressure alone. Once the coupler is properly seated and the motor and pump are reassembled, the coupler should spin freely when using your finger to turn the black rubber disk that joins the two plastic halves as they turn the motor and transmission. On my first try, I did not properly seat the coupler on the shafts and the coupler did not spin freely. The result was a burning smell because the motor was working too hard to turn the coupler. I repeated my work and seated the coupler halves on each shaft with a hammer. The machine now works well. Here is an alternate source for the Part # 285753A: www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3963893&pn_=285753A. I noticed that AppliancePartsPros ships directly from UPS’ world headquarters in Louisville. I live there and had the part before lunchtime the very next day. Most places in the USA can be reached from Louisville by UPS ground in 2 days. According to their website, that same part # fits all Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper and KitchenAid direct drive washers (no belt). Good luck!

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

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Ok i got this problem with a kenmore washing machine.they tip the washing macine to do some repare and when they put it back on her normal position .but now when they set the wather livel and it wont stop untill it go over board. MY QUESTION IS . .IS THERE A WAY TO FIX THIS PROLEM BECAUSE IT WAS WORK ALRIGTH BEFORE THE TIPING IT WOULD STOP AT WHAT EVER LIVE OF WATHER U PUT IN

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

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Have a dual action kenmore 70 series wash machine top half of agitator does not work how do I fix it?

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

4 Suggested Answers

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Broken Machine-Kenmore 70 series Washing Machine

This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If your model number is correct, the lid switch for your washer is located under the right hand side of the washer casing along the wash tub rim. The switch is activated by a small plastic piece on the washer lid (called a "lid strike") through a small hole. The switch contacts close when you shut the lid. In many cases, the lid switch either comes loose, or the lid strike breaks off. In both cases, the washer will exhibit the symptoms you describe. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" sound as the switch contacts close. If you cannot hear the switch, make sure the lid strike is intact and the mounting screws for the lid switch (located around the wash tub opening on the casing) are tight. Sometimes, all it takes is to tighten the lid switch screws to realign it with the lid strike. If the switch is defective, or the strike is missing, parts can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number, which can be found on a nameplate under the washer lid. The lid switch and lid strike will be listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Other sites that offer competitive pricing are repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com. If you require instructions on how to replace the switch, you may use the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you have questions, or if the diagnosis is incorrect, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 Washing Machine wont spin,

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Also see the following with the section on gaining access to the console lid switch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

The Sears site for your washer may have a section on the gearcase. Check in that section for a Neutral Drain repair kit.

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: My washing machine (Kenmore 70 Series) does not spin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My Kenmore 70 series washer sounds like it has something stuck in it and makes a grinding and buzzing noise the agitator will barely move but the washer will drain but not spin


That could be the motor coupler. It could also be the transmission. It is pretty easy to fix. I recently worked on my brother's washer:

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The electric motor my have failed or a part called a capacitor could be the problem? The capacitor is part of the starting circuit of the electric motor, if this fails the motor will not start therefore the washing machine won't spin or agitate.

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IN BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND TRANSMISSION THERE IS A MOTOR COUPLING PART # 285753A REPLACE THAT WILL FIX YOUR PROBLEM

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Sounds like you have a broken motor coupler. Not expensive. #13 on the diagram. Part # 285753, dave www.washermd.com

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Kenmore Washing Machine 70 series


You most likely have a broken coupler between the motor and gearcase.
You can buy the part for about $10 or have someone come out and replace it for about $150-200.
If you will post the complete model number from the the washer so I can see which style cabinet you have, I will try to walk you through the repair. It isn't very complicated if you are handy with home repairs.
With the age of the machine it probably just needs a coupler, but it could also have a problem in the transmission or basket drive that has caused the failure.

Nov 13, 2007 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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Loud clicking noise - wont agitate or spin


I had the same clicking noise. Turned out to be the coupling between the motor and transmission. A $15 plus 1 hour labor fix

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baseball, sounds like a broken coupler, check out this post and post back, Catriver http://www.fixya.com/support/t144580-kenmore_8series_washer

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