Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

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Rear Tub and inner basket reassembly

I ordered and confirm that I have order the correct rear tub(with supply house & Sears) My problem is that the shaft of the stainless steel basket does not fit the bearings of the rear tub. It does go on partially but, I am afraid to force it should I?

Thanks,
David

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That is correct there is two different sizes. Mine happened 40 miles out of Phoenix and had to re order the part.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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The door is locked and my laundry is inside i cant get it ouut or turn it on

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

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If the shaft of the steel inner basket does not show any signs of wear such a grooves or scoring, the problem is probably with the tub shell you ordered. I have experienced this problem before on ONE occasion and had to reorder the rear tub shell. To answer your question, "No", you shouldn't have to force the shaft into the bearing, and I probably wouldn't recommend it. However, before you assume all is lost and have to resort to another order, try using some very fine sand paper or emery paper on the basket shaft to see if this will allow it to insert easier. I hope this doesn't sound discouraging.

Posted on Sep 20, 2008

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Loud noise during spin cycle even when I rotate manually - loose


ok, from the sound of things you're not going to like me any better when i get done than you did previously.. :)
if you can move the clothes tub/basket (stainless steel with lots of holes in it) not only around in a circle, but forward and backwards, and i assume diagonally kinda/sorta also within the constrains of the outer plastic tub/shell u gots big problems!!
within the plastic outer shell that keeps the water in containment, and houses/contains the bearing and seal assembly, would normally rotate a 3 armed spindle to which that stainless clothes basket is attached, those attachment points were prone to fail!!! especially if you live where you have acidic water which attacks the pot metal spindle assembly within 2 or 3 years, sometimes a little longer but usually just out of "warranty" unfortunately. now be warned or happy depending on how your warranty is worded that some of those "electrolux/frigidaire" manufactured kenmore appliances came with a 10 year "part" warranty on that same stainless steel clothes basket, and if that has defected and destroyed the bearings within that rear tub half then sears in their infinite wisdom should and will "when pressured" replace them both as one led to the destruction of the other. the labor to change them would fall on your shoulders and i'm not sure what they are charging for that level of repair now.
if u had to buy those parts you are talking about approximately $170 for the rear tub half w/bearing, and $200 for the inner stainles steel basket..
if you've never changed one of these before plan on around 5 hours, 2 bandaids, and lots of patience as the bolts that hold the tub together are only available from the front yet you'll be doing most of your wiggling from the rear.. save the foam blocks that the tub half come with for shims/spacers to hold the front tub half up with once u remove the shocks and springs ;)
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Dec 29, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Terrible noise on spin cycle, stainless drum is loose inside plastic tub, wore the front half of the plastic tub down due to friction. Took washer completely apart, found the spider arms cracked. It...


Just had the same problem 1 month ago. My Whirlpool Duet front load made that terrible noise. 2 of the 3 spider arms were cracked. I hade a new hole tub with the spider arm and the shaft , because it is 10 years limited waranty . But if it is not under waranty it costs about 270$ for that tub you can buy it from many appliance parts web sites on the net. Good luck, huge job to all remove that thing

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7 Answers

Duet washer very loud when spinning


No you do not have problems with your bearings (especially if you can rotate the basket and it rotates nice and smooth).

What has happened to your machine is exactly what happened to mine: One of the three 'legs' on the shaft support attached to the rear or the basket has broken. The reason it broke is because the bracket is made of die-cast aluminum alloy that is being attacked by galvanic corrosion. See attached pictures of the corroded shaft support, including a close-up of the break. This is what you will find when your machine is taken apart.

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You can verify this failure mode by slowly rotating the basket and observing the position of the basket at its maximum off-center location. While the basket is at this position look at the back of the basket and you should see one of the three 'indents' located at the 12 o'clock position. While at this position you should be able to move the basket up and down. Now rotate the basket 120 deg so that the next 'indent' is positioned at the 12 o'clock position. The basket will now be more centered in the opening, and you will not be able to move the basket up and down. You have just identified which of the three bracket arms have been broken.

Call Whirlpool warranty service (1-800-253-1301) and tell them about the problem with the basket: believe it or not the basket has a life-time warranty. The shaft support is not available as a seperate item. The basket p/n is 8182232.

I was able to get Whirlpool to send me a replacement basket, but they would not do the same for the front-half of the plastic tub, which was damaged by the basket hitting the front lip, even though the warranty states that the plastic tub is warranteed for ten years. They did however agree to sell me one for 50% off the std cost. The p/n is 285982.

If your washer was purchased less than 5 years ago, best to work with your local Whirlpool authorized service agent to get the machine repaired. My machine is over 5 years old (GHW9100LW1), and I am repairing the machine myself.

I would be interested in hearing how you make out in getting your washer repaired.

Regards,
Bill in Ma.

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1 Answer

Drum Tilt


Your spin basket spider arm support on the back of the spin basket is broken. The spider arms support the entire weight of the basket and insert into the tub bearing in the back of the washer. You will need to replace the spin basket (stainless steel tub) in order to fix this problem. The tub is not repairable and cannot be welded, either (I have been asked this question before). I would not recommend you use the washer any longer as it will cause further damage to the outer tub shells. If you have a repairman perform this job, it can be quite expensive (around $300, $400, perhaps higher), because of the labor involved. Some smaller appliance repair companies won't touch a job like this. However, the washer is repairable, and you can perform this yourself. If you wish to accomplish this on your own, I can give you step-by-step instructions and where to order a new tub. Let me know if you want my assistance.

Oct 29, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Rear tub bearing replacement


The shaft on the spinner basket may have worn and formed a groove, or, if the bearing seal was leaking, the shaft may be stuck because of rust. The best way I know how to get the spinner basket out, is to try spraying the shaft with a lubricant like penetrating oil, or WD-40 and letting it sit a while. Allow the lubricant to settle into the area where the shaft seats into the bearing. If this does not provide you with any luck, place the outer drum face down on something to elevate the spin basket up off the floor. I suggest using a couple of saw horses, or blocks of wood. Allow the outer shell to rest on supports, leaving the spin basket free. Place some padding or old towels on the floor underneath the basket. Take a mallet (I prefer a rubber mallet, as it tends to be less abusive) and tap on the end of the drum shaft. The spin basket should pop free and drop from the tub shell. I hope this helps you.

PS You only have to elevate the basket and tub off the floor enough to allow the spin basket to drop free of the tub. About a foot is all I would recommend. Make sure you inspect and clean the spin basket shaft once you get it removed. Some very fine emery paper is what I would recommend to make sure the shaft is not scored or have any rough areas. DO NOT use any electric sanders or dremils for this! It should be clean and smooth before re-installing. If you cannot get the basket free, or if you do, and the shaft is damaged, you may consider replacing it as well. Placing a damaged shaft into a new bearing may not seal properly.

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1 Answer

Helpp


If you have removed the drive belt from the rear pulley and the inner spin basket does not spin freely, you either have a drum bearing seized up on you, or something binding between the spin basket (stainless steel tub) and the outer tub shell. First, you need to reach inside the wash tub with the washer empty. Place the palm of your hand at the 12 o'clock position and push straight up. There shouldn't be any play in the spin basket. If you can feel the basket wobble up and down, you have either a bearing problem, or a spin basket support (spider arm) broken on the back of the spin basket. If there is no play at all, you probably have something caught. Small articles of clothing can sometimes get pulled between the tubs and usually ends up around the support shaft in the rear. This will obstruct the basket from spinning freely and could eventually cause damage to the drive motor, spin basket and/or tub bearings. You can use the instructions for replacing a rear tub bearing that I have posted under my Tip and Tricks for instructions on how to disassemble and inspect the tub. The bearing may not be bad, but you still need to check to see if anything is binding the spin basket against the tub shell and inspect the spin basket supports. Unfortunately, you have to disassemble the washer to be able to inspect any of these items I mention. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Stainless steel drum loose


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