Make sure that all of your internal fans are running. Power up the computer with the case open (just take the side panel off). As I am sure you have seen from making upgrades, there is a fan over your processor on the motherboard. Make sure it is spinning. Also look on the back and make sure the fan on the power supply is running. These fans may need to be cleaned. This can be done using a spray can of compressed air (it is recommend to clean the dust out of a computer at least once a year). The fans may just be gunked up and not running properly. If there are smokers in the house, do not let them smoke around the computer as the tar in the cigarette can build up over time on the fans and computer components and cause some major problems. If cigarette tar is the issue then clean the fan blades off with a q-tip. If the fans still do not work they may need to be replaced. Some computer stores sell fans that will work for your current model of heat sink, which sits above your processor. If the power supply fan is not working then you need to replace the power supply. If the powersupply needs to be replaced then make sure to match the wattage of the new power supply to the one you currently have. You may buy a power supply with a higher wattage rating as well, just make sure it will fit!
I have assumed that the problem is with heating because you said that things were running like loading a page or when a screen saver was running. These processes make your processor work harder and it builds up more heat and can cause your system to freeze by causing writing errors to and from RAM.
There is a slight possibility that this could be software related. If the computer fans are running then run an antivirus program to make sure that there are no viruses on the computer.
I sure hopes this helps. If you still have problems, then let me know and there may be some other steps we can try.
Well doc1950 it sounds like you really take good care of your computer system. That is good. I am bound and determined to help you get to the bottom of this problem. So I will suggest a few more things.
Unless you have upgraded the processor without applying thermal grease or the heat sink and fan properly then you probably don't have a temperature problem. But you can usually check the current temperature for your CPU and Motherboard in your CMOS Setup program under the power option. (I have assumed that you are aware as to how to enter CMOS setup because you have made upgrades and are aware of overclocking). System hangs are an indicator of Motherboard problems. You might do the following to make sure that is not the problem:
- Check the voltage output of your powersupply. This should actually be
the very first thing you do, as it could very well be the problem. And
if you replace a motherboard when the Power supply is the problem, then
you will damage the new motherboard! When testing (with a multimeter), make sure to be safe, don't let probes touch each other, the board, or you when one of them is hot, or both of them are hot. Do not touch any chips or circuitry on the board. Do not let any static discharge and fry any circuitry. (Also you must check the voltage output while the computer is powered on -of course, so don't ground yourself to the computer at this point. However at all other times you want to make sure you are grounded to eliminate any possibility of static discharge to the board or other components). Static discharge, by the way, may have been what caused your original problem. Back to checking power: The voltage range for each connection is often written on the top of the power supply. Make sure the mutlimeter is set to measure voltage and not current (amps). Set the multimeter to measure voltage in a range of 20 volts, and set the AC/DC switch to DC. Below is a link to a website that has directions to exactly how to measure voltage output to an ATX motherboard (which I am pretty sure you are using). It includes directions, charts and diagrams.
Checking Your Power Supply's Voltage
- Check all capacitors on motherboard to make sure none of them are bad. If they have bulging and/or discolored heads then they are bad. Even one bad capacitor may be the cause of your problem. So look carefully. (Solution: Replace Motherboard)
- Look for other physical damage to the board including frayed traces. (Traces are the lines that run all over your board - these carry data, and power to and from devices/memory/processor/expansion busses/chipset). (Solution: Traces can be resaudered - delicately! or The motherboard needs to be replaced)
- Remove as much unnecessary hardware as possible and reboot the system. If this fixes the problem then reinstall hardware until you find the cause of the problem. (neccessary hardware: motherboard, processor, powersupply, hard drive, keyboard, monitor)
- Make sure that all metal spacers under the motherboard are in place properly. Improper connections can cause shorts.
- Check the voltage output of your powersupply. This should actually be the very first thing you do, as it could very well be the problem. And if you replace a motherboard when the Power supply is the problem, then you will damage the new motherboard!
- Lastly, if all of these steps fail, you may want to try flashing your BIOS. But it is a very tricky process. I reccomend looking up your motherboard's make and model number online and looking to see if you can find a BIOS upgrade for your board. It should also include directions on exactly how to do it for your motherboard. (Make sure you have tried several other options before doing this, as this can cause problems, but it can also solve problems.)
I hope some of these ideas helped. I believe you might be having problems with either your motherboard or power supply, so check both, but like I said above, check the power supply first. Let me know if this does not work.
×
There are some basic steps that you can take to make sure that your wireless keyboard and mouse have the best chances of working.
First and foremost, replace your batteries.
This is the leading cause of failure. Strong batteries are vital if your wireless keyboard and mouse, including Microsoft, Logitech, and other brands, are to work correctly.
Weak batteries can be frustrating to deal with. Sometimes the mouse or keyboard will work fine, and sometimes they start acting odd.
This is where the jerky and slow motion problems can show up. The problem is that Alkaline batteries can provide plenty of energy at first, even if they are worn down.
After a few minutes or hours of use, however, they lose their capacity and the jerky problems can start up. You may even deal with it, then walk away from the computer for the rest of the day (such as leaving your office).
While you are gone, the batteries regain some of their capacity. The cycle repeats itself until eventually the keyboard or mouse do not work at all.
Another common problem is that the receiver for the wireless keyboard or mouse can be too far away for them to work. I have personally seen cases where the mouse works if used on one side of the mouse pad, and not the other.
This was due to the distance of the mouse from the receiver being too great when on the far side of the mouse pad.
The same can be true of a keyboard.
This will also cause the same jerky motions to a mouse, and missed keys on a keyboard.
The solution to this problem is to move the receiver closer to the keyboard and mouse. If the receiver is of the USB fob type (similar in shape to a USB memory stick) then you can buy a USB extension cable and place the fob closer.
Perhaps placing it next to the monitor would work best. If the receiver has a tendency to fall behind your desk, a small, clear piece of scotch tape will hold it down, and will be one hundred percent removable if you decide to move it later.
If your wireless keyboard or mouse have a desktop receiver, try moving it a little closer.
You may also need to press the "connect" buttons on the receiver and also underneath the keyboard and mouse.
If they have an on/off switch you should turn them on and off.
Hopefully this article will help you to fix your Microsoft wireless keyboard and mouse slow, **** or lockup problems.
If not, check with the technical support and Frequently Asked Questions sections of your manufacturer's support website.
hope this helps
97 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Hey, thanks for the advice. The fans and heat sinks are clean and no second hand smoke to cause that oily cigarette problem. The house is clean, but if there is any dust around, It always seems to go straight to the computer. (Maybe that's why the house is clean:)
I use a regular automotive type air compressor set to about 25psi and a soft bristle brush about twice as often as you suggest.
I don't think it's a software problem but it could be. My wife runs a registered copy of Symantec (Norton) A.V. We have backed up programs a couple times and run the HP reinstall program. There doesn't seem to be any correlation between it's locking up and any particular program.
Could it be the video card (original onboard adapter)? I don't have a spare to try after disabling the onboard card.
Also, It locks both online and offline. Sometime it will lock playing solitaire, which is not a big problem. BUT trying to get that last bid in on Ebay at the last minute and have it quit, is quite frustrating.
Any other ideas???
thanks ,
[email protected]
×