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Re: refridgerator top freezer exterior wall hot
Hi......... Folow these steps. It's worth a try. 1.Pull
the fridge out from the wall and unplug it. 2. Clean the dust and lint off
the compresser and everything else. 3. Also clean under the fridge. 4. The
frame around the freezer door should cool down.
If the cooling fan was stuck , that may also be a cause for your refrigerator wall becoming hot.Check that too. Hope My info is useful....Bye
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ge has had alot of problems with the computer boards but this sounds like the evap fan isn't working,i need you to answer a few questions for me,first when you open the freezer door do you hear the fan blowing?also from the bottom up remove the second draw or food bin and put your hand on the back wall inside the freezer and tell me if there's like snow or frost on the wall,if so you have a defrost problem,one more thing check the model number,you'll find it in the fridge side,up on the right hand wall near the ceiling
Have seen it many times before especially on Whirlpool fridges before. It is not detrimental to the running of the fridge but has the tendency to warp the door fridge seals. In my opinion, when the fridge was piped up, instead of running the high side (hot pipe from the compressor), through the radiator first and then to the fridge body, they have done it in the opposite way. As a result, All the heat from the compressor is going firstly into the fridge frame to eventually exiting and then going to the radiator.(Thats why it is so hot between the doors). To rectify this, you need a technician to swap the pipes over at the back as already discussed, then regass..
ge has had alot of problems with the computer board that's in the back of the fridge.but first try this,open the freezer door,you should hear the fan blowing in there,if not you could have a bad evap fan motor,also touch the back wall of the freezer,if there's snow or ice on the back wall you have a defrost problem,you could have a bad heater or a defrost thermostat,also have you cleaned the coil on the bottom of the fridge?remove the bottom kick plate and vac it out,pull out the machine,remove the back bottom panel and vac that out,ashop vac works great for this vac out what you can and then blow out the coil and clean out any of the dust that you couldn't vac up.if the frame between the doors is hot that's one way of telling it's time to clean under there and when you have the back panel off make sure the fan is blowing back there.if everything looks good i would change the computer board,it costs around 150 to 200 hundred bucks.let me know what you find and if you need any more help let me know.
Since it is likely that your fridge is less than 20+ years old, it has become standard to design modern fridges with built-in door edge warmers to keep condensation (moisture) from forming on the exterior at the door edges along the main cabinet.
Since doors get opened frequently and the difference between the cool, dry air of the fridge and the room air can cause condensation to form quite often, the manufacturers install heating elements along the door edges in both the freezer and fridge compartments to help keep the condensation from forming.
Some makers (GE was the 1st) installed "energy saver" switches inside some of their fridges. The reason was not every area required the door edge heating elements to be on constantly, so by turning the "energy saver" switch "ON" it would turn these small heaters "off", thus saving some energy. With the "energy saver" switch "OFF, you would turn "on" the heaters and help prevent condensation from forming.
To get an idea of this, think of your toilet tank and how it "sweats" in the hot, humid summer months, as the water is colder than the air in the room, thus condensation forms on the exterior of the tank, as the difference in the temperature of the surrounding air and the water in the tank meet.
What you are noticing is normal and is no cause for alarm. Today's fridges no longer employ "energy saver" switches, as the heating element and technology has improved to the point that the energy consumption is minimal for the connivance of not having excessive condensation on the exterior of the fridge!
This is typical for frost-free refridgerators/freezers. In order to keep ice from buiding up on the interior walls of the freezer section, the manufacturer installs electric defrosting elements and extra "warming" elements in the outer edges of the cabinet, normally around the door openings to help mitigate any frost/ice build up and surface condensation that typically occurs on the exterior surfaces as the doors are opened and closed frequently.
These edge warmers stay very warm to keep ice and condensation from accumulating and will become VERY very warm (hot) when the fridge/freezer is in the once a day defrost cycle.
Unless you have an energy saver switch (GE trademark) inside the fridge section, which you can turn off, there is no way to disable these added elements. If you find that you're getting ice building up in the freezer, you'll need to turn off the energy saver switch to resolve that issue.
Energy Saver switch "ON" means these elements are off, while having the ES switch "OFF" means those heaters are running all the time and costing you more in energy consumption
There are 2 or 3 things that would cause this. first make sure the condenser coils are not plugged with dust (vacumn or blow them out) next check to make sure the fan that cools these coils is running, (this is the most likely problem). if both of these check out ok then you would need to check to make sure your interior lights ar going off when the doors are closed as these will add extra heat and cause the center rails to run hot. last and most uncommon would be a freon system problem. To clean the coils pull the refrig from the wall, remove compartment cover, and then you will see a round spiral shaped coil. the fan is located on the left end of this coil.
fyi there is a hot gas freon line that runs in between the doors to prevent exterior sweating. when poor or no air flow problems for the condenser coil exist it causes this area to become hotter. One more thing. if you do determine that the condenser fan motor is bad you can put a normal house fan blowing on to the coil to help cool this area down until you can get the unit repaired. If you need any further assistance leave me a comment here and I'll gladly get back to you. Thanks Peyton
Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.