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Roper Model # REX4635EWO it won't start, i have changed to start switch and it didn't help, if i take a screw driver and connect the wires to it and ground it to the top of the washer it will run, can you help me figure out what it is that needs to be fixed: is it a lose wire that has come off the ground or what????? Thank you Melissa Crabtree miskatlyn@hotmail.com

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  • miskatlyn Sep 19, 2008

    no not the door switch, when we connect the screwdriver to the prongs on the starter switch and ground it to the metal and have the door closed it runs, when we open the door it stops, it has something to do with the start switch, we replaced the start switch today and the same thing happened, could it be a bad wire, and someone told me to replace the start switch with a toggle switch and that would work, how accurate is that

  • miskatlyn Sep 19, 2008

    no it's not the door switch, when we replaced the start switch and it still didn't work, we connected the prongs to the start switch with a screwdriver and grounded it to the metal of the dryer closed the door and it ran, when we opened the door it stoped, so we know it's not the door. but don't understand y when you connect the prongs to metal iwth a screwdriver and ground it it will work

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Ck door switch

Posted on Sep 19, 2008

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1 Answer

D945ghz


Intel D945GZ motherboard? Got it. Now what the world are you talking about? A Chassis Intrusion Switch? What desktop computer is it in? Computer manufacturer name, and Model Number. Post back in a Comment.

Wait a minute. Won't boot, or the Power Supply doesn't start up?
Power Supply doesn't start up;

1) You have a bad ATX power on switch
2) You didn't connect the ATX power on switch to the correct pins, on the Front Panel header.
3) You have a bad Power Supply

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Computer doesn't boot up;
1) You didn't follow Anti-Static Precautions
2) You didn't apply Thermal Paste to the top of the Processor, before you put the Heatsink on.
3) You didn't connect the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Power for the Processor. (No processor, no computer)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

4) You didn't use the Installation Disk (CD) that came with the motherboard. (Has the DRIVERS)
5) Is this a replacement motherboard for a bad one?
SAME motherboard, or a different one?
Why?

Because when Windows is installed on a computer, (Harddrive, actually), it assigns hash values to certain major hardware components.

Components such as;
1) Processor
2) Motherboard chipset
3) BIOS program, version, and date
4) Harddrive
5) Graphics chipset. (Whether Integrated Graphics, or a graphics card)

Change any two of these components, and Windows will think it is being stolen.
Microsoft User's License states, "ONE Genuine copy of Windows per ONE computer "

[ Microsoft makes one Master disk. From it all GENUINE copies are made, and sold to the consumer ]

If you are lucky, the Windows activation screen may come up. Windows will want to be activated again. (Activated, not Registered)
Doesn't happen all the time, though.

Using a brand new genuine copy of Windows? Make sure you go into BIOS Setup, and in Boot Order, set the first boot device to CDROM.


The LED light on the motherboard indicates it HAS power.

Motherboard Manual for the Intel D945GCZ mobo. (MOtherBOard),

(GHz stands for GigaHertz.
Giga = approximately 1 Billion.
Hertz stands for Cycles per Second.
1GHz = approximately 1 Billion Cycles per Second.
It refers to Frequency Rate. For laymen frequency rate = 'Speed')

Plus, it isn't new. It is NOS. New Old Stock.
Means it could be a bad motherboard, even if it has never been used.

{Computer technology follows Moore's Law,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moore%27s_law

What is new technology today may be old tomorrow }

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d945gcz/sb/CS-020793.htm

Blue -> English Product Guide [PDF]

Let me know if you think there is a Chassis Intrusion Switch.
It will operate one of two ways;

1) When the cover is removed, the switch is open. No connection of the two wires is present. Remove the switch, put a piece of heat shrink tubing over one wire, and slide it back out of the way.

Twist the two wires together with an Electrician's knot, solder them, slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection, use heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing.

2) When the cover is removed, the switch is closed. The wires are grounded out. Remove the switch. Cut the exposed bare wire off, leaving just the insulation. Put a wire nut on it. Do the same for the other wire.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
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Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you with changing your dryer plug.Dryer Cord and Wiring Dryer 3 Wire or 4 Wire



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Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

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Good day,
Sounds like the door switch. Easy repair. Remove the lint filter.
Remove the 2 screws under the lint filter opening. With a screw driver, insert it between the lid and front panel on one side at a time. Pop that end up and then do the other side.
Lift the lid up and away from you.
You will see the switch. Replacing it is a pure nuts and bolts operation. Just make sure you mark the wires before removing the old switch.
The kit (It's a Whirlpool product) should be available at any decent sized appliance parts house.

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Watch the video:

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http://www.whirlpool.com/custserv/index.jsp

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