Question about Frigidaire PHSC239DSB Side by Side Refrigerator
We have had trouble with our Frigidaire frige for over a year now, not auto defrosting.... The service guys have been out three times and always do the same thing. They replace the board on the top inside of the fresh food side (has the digital number display and a ribbon connector). They also replace the lower main board that slides out with the components in a tray which has a wire harness.
These repairs have never fixed the auto defrost problem. we have to pull the cover over the coils off and use a hair dryer to melt the ice chunk away about once a month.
I am always trying to use manual defrost codes which one in a hundred times activates and gives the code readout on display "d" and "f". But it never actually defrosts the coils??? Is there something else I can replace? To get another refrigerator to match is gonna be $2000.00 at least.
Model # PHSC239DSB1
Serial # LA43422721
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only while the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.
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Posted on Sep 20, 2008
Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..
Heavy Frost on the Coils
This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.
Just click below for more information;
There are 44 'Do-It-Yourselfer' stories about installing this part
Hope this may help you;
Posted on Sep 20, 2008
Most refrigerators are frost-free. but In this type of unit, a heater is automatically turned on by a timer in order to melt the frost inside the unit. Frost is melted by the heater at several different spots in the unit, starting with the coldest and most frosted areas. When the frost is completely melted, the thermostat automatically switches to a cooling cycle in order to maintain the standard freezing temperature. Because this process is automatic, frost does not build up inside the box.but if it build up then you know that first the heater is faulty and equally Other basic parts of the cooling/defrosting system which include switches, thermostats, heaters, condensers, and fans. A do-it-yourselfer can test and replace many of these refrigerator components
hope this helps
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
Have a check over these defrost heater, a defrost timer, or a defrost terminator.
Look at the condenser coils, located at the bottom of the refrigerator (behind the kick plate) or, in some cases, at the back. These coils disperse heat from inside the refrigerator out into the room with the aid of a fan. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator won't operate efficiently, so clean them.
Posted on Sep 18, 2008
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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