Question about Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

My single glasstop oven

Upper and lower burners have 120v going through both leads yet won't heat up.Both have continuity and oven indicator light will quickly go on and off when dial is turned on.Is main switch the problem?Also 1 of 4 burners does not work and no continuity through it.Thanks,Daren

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  • dbourne9 Sep 18, 2008

    ok,so with both leads off (of each burner)one lead will have a constant 120v(switch on) and the other will only go up to a max of 48v turned all the way.The same for the top burner when broil is on.I have a black and red each with seperate 120v in the plug plus the neutral.Hope this clears this up.Thanks again,Daren

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  • Whirlpool Master
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If you are measuring 120 volts on either leg of a burner element, it can't heat; you need to find 120 volts on ONE lead and neutral on the other unless,  the two are different phases and you can't tell a phase difference with a standard meter.
I would pull the plug and do continuity checking without AC applied; turning 'on' the burner control for any heating element should cause the resistance across the plug contacts to plummet to something not readable on a common multimeter unless there are electronic controls that aren't on with the plug pulled.
If your wall plug has three large contacts, you may be using 2-phase AC in which case, finding 120 on each leg would be OK since they are not in phase. This setup uses one of a couple of different receptacles, all with beefy contacts and would have either the contacts in a ring, a 'y' or a version of the standard US plug but with much larger prongs.    At the wall receptacle, check between each pair of contacts; you should find a common that measures the same to two other contacts and then between those two, ~ 205-210 volts (nominally 208 VAC) This higher voltage is due to two phases of AC that are purposely phase-shifted.
The burner that does nothing is definitely failed.     

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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  • Master
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Will try to help here.. First off.. when you measure 120VAC at each terminal for the heating elements..what are you using as a reference? Ground? Since your stove is probably wired 220VAC, I would expect to see something across the two terminals to the element that isn't line voltage.. meaning, when you turn the controller to a setting, you should see something more than 120VAC across the terminals and the current will be controlled to maintain a heat setting. The burner that has an open element is indendent so that should not factor in. Heating elements are nothing more than a big resistor that generate heat when current flows thru them. Just because you have one leg of power doesn't mean you have current flow thru it and therefore that is where I think your problem is... You may have an open leg ..Check the power coming into the oven and make sure you have 220VAC across the two line voltage terminals.. Be careful ( very careful ) when doing this...
Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
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I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


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