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Household wiring Two way switch wiring diagram when power runs directly through switch commons run through connector strip outside of switch

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  • joanyvonnegr Oct 04, 2008

    two-way switching wiring


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There are 2 3way switches. Usually one end has a wire going to the light, and the other end 3 way switch has the always on power coming in. Between the two switches are 2-wire travellers.

On the actual 3way switches;
2 screws are the same color and the 2-wire travellers go on these. The other screw is a different color -usually black. This screw gets the power on one end, and the switch leg to the light at the other end.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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FIrst of all, it is actually called a 3-way switch system. I would suggest that you either consult and elexctrician or look up the Time-Life series on home projects which contains a couple of volumes on electrical projects. Included in there are complete diagrams of how to hook up 3-way switch systems.


Posted on Oct 07, 2008

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20A125/250V wire diagram

I've copied instructions from an Amazon review.
worse than worthless and border on dangerous. Be forewarned, and allow some time to install it correctly; and don't expect any help from the included paperwork.


- There is no ON/OFF indicated on the switch or the instructions, so there is no way to know which direction is on or off. The picture included is upside down, and shown in the OFF position. If you install it with the switch on top, it will work intuitively with the switch up for ON and down for OFF. (Should be common sense, but doesn't say it anywhere, and the text on the device and photo suggests otherwise.)

In short, here's what the directions should say:

Before you begin -> Leave yellow sticker over top connections unless you want to add downstream GFCI protected outlets/lights - that's straightforward.

1) Strip all connections to 1/2", and use the holes on back of receptacle for direct connection.
2) Connect wires from breaker into terminals in back of switch/outlet. (Hot=Black-Gold; Neutral=White-Silver)
3) Connect white wire from light into extra hole next to the white wire from breaker.
4) Connect one short black wire from outlet into the hole next to black wire from breaker.
(this means all four holes are now filled)
5) Connect remaining black wire sticking out of receptacle directly to the black wire from your light.
6) Ensure all ground lines are properly connected.
7) Push into box, install cover plate and enjoy.

NOTE: This will result in the GFCI working properly, with no GFCI protection for the light. This is the recommended install, so that if the GFCI trips you won't be in the dark. If you want GFCI protection for the light as well, simply modify step 4 and insert the black pigtail into the hot terminal under the sticker.

The directions offer myriad ways to connect this, but are incredibly hard to decipher because the text does not agree with the diagrams. I believe that diagram B1 was the one that 95% of people will need...

Jun 06, 2014 | Pass & Seymour 1595SWTTRWCC4 COMBINATION...

1 Answer

I am adding a timer to my pool pump and cannot get it to run - help appreciated. I have a 240 box outside which the pump was directly hooked to without issue. I have now moved the pump and am putting...

I write complete answers, and know the GE timer line.
Open links to illustrate discussion.
Aug 2011, Jasco does not show a manual for 15351 timer.

They show 120V 15350, which is identical to 120V 15306.

That makes me believe that 240Volt GE15351 is identical to 240V GE15307.
BUT the 15351 might be a DPST with NO and NC terminals >>> add a comment if your instructions say anything about NO NC terminals.

If 15351 and 15307 are identical, then your wiring is 100% correct, assuming you connected hot leads to terminals L and 1.

Checking details:
1) You checked that terminals L and 1 are not connected by a brass bridge.
The 120Volt timer comes with a brass bridge across L and 1
2) Timer mechanism is attached to enclosure with 2 screws. Remove timer mechanism from enclosure, and compare back of your timer with following image to confirm timer is DPST.
3) Test 10-3 wire from breaker box. Test each wire to bare ground to confirm the hot wires. Then test each hot wire to other wire to confirm neutral wire. Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power and stand on dry boards.
4) Read nameplate on motor to make sure it is single-speed 240Volt.
5) IF motor is 2-speed, then look at wiring diagram and then add a comment with that information.
6) If pump motor trips breaker when connected directly, then pump might be shorted out. Double check wiring diagram on pump.

7) Take photos of problem. Post photos on flickr. Then add a comment with links to photos so I can see wiring diagrams, for possible help.

Aug 21, 2011 | Intermatic T104 24h 208-277v Mechanical...

1 Answer


Wiring diagram shows on side of timer and looks same as to following illustration:
For more complicated illustration showing din rail and modular timer wiring variations:

With din rail timers, the power connects to screw terminals 1 and 2 and this will run the clock and relay.
The TE502 image is bad, and I can't see wiring diagram exactly.
It appears that terminal 4 is common. This is typical for din rail timers.
Put Hot lead to terminal 4.
Terminal 3 appears to be the NO terminal, so put wire going to Load to terminal 3.

Jun 20, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

2 Answers

The 3 way switches I purchased say to hook the hot wire to the dark colored screw but it is not in the location on the switch show in the diagram. Do I use the dark color screw or the position shown on the...

the darker colored screw is always the hot terminal no matter what,and the other silver or lighter colored are for the traveler pair to the other 3way switch,if the switch and diagram seem to differ,you can go to the manufacturers website and contact them for further info on this question,it could also be the wrong diagram with this particular switch unless its marked identical on both the switch and diagram

Mar 23, 2011 | Cooper Wiring Devices INC #C7503W-SP WHT...

1 Answer

I dont know if this went anywhere the first time or if I have to pay to get an answer, but I tried to replace the 2 toggle switch below with a switch which had a single toggle switch above a...

It sounds like the outside light may have been wired differently from what you may have thought.

You may need Sparkie to come and comb it through for you. You did not mention what happened to the other switched curcuit that you eliminated.

Lights wire in one of several ways, and the most common run power to the light and then on to the switch. in this configuration, the white neutral wire should be taped black, as it carries hot power during use. This wiring configuration may not allow you to have a power plug as you describe, as there may not be full time power in the switch box.

the other most common is power comes to the switch and then on to the light. this is much less commonly used.

Nov 06, 2010 | Pass & Seymour #690WGCC6 15A White 2SP UL...

1 Answer

I need a diagram for home wiring, 2 gang switch and a 3 way switch.

A two gang switch will be a swith witho the the shape of a duplex outlet. with a toggle on each end. there will be two screws on each side with possibly a green screw on one of the sides. The green screw is for ground, and should be either attached to the box or a green wire all the way back to the panel. The screws on one side will be a copper brown color and you will notice a strip of metal that connects the two screws together. This is the hot or common side (usually a black wire. The two screws on the other side will be a bright copper color, and they will be the swich leads from the switch to the fixture you are attempting to power up (the wires that connect to these switch leads are probably any color but green or white). Never connect the neutral (white) wire to any part of the switch.

The three way switch will have three screws on it. One is copper brown, and the other two are bright brass in color. The dark screw is the common (black wire). the other two screws connect the runners from one switch to the other switch. The runners dont connect to anything but the other switch. On one end the common wire attaches from the switch to the power and on the other end the common wire attaches from the switch to the fixture. The white (neutral) wire does not connect to the switches, it runs from the panel directly to the fixture.

I hope this has been helpful.

Mar 25, 2010 | Gb Electrical GSW-117 Toggle Switch

2 Answers

Im installing a two way switch and have one hot lead. going crazy please help

If I understand you correctly, your hot lead should attach to 1 switch and a common wire goes from that switch to the other switch. Here's a link to a good explanation of 2 way switch wiring. Essentially you run power to one switch, and that same switch sends power via 1 of 2 other wires to the second switch. The light (or other device) is then connected to the second switch. Hopefully the diagrams in the following link will help you. In any case you need 3 wires at each switch. Good luck!

Mar 10, 2010 | Leviton R03-5634-A Two Single-pole...

1 Answer

I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Oct 10, 2009 | Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart...

1 Answer

I installed gfi outlet and I have no power!

turn off circuit, test to make sure its off.
remove the old outlet
black and white wires from breaker attach to line
the wires to the rest of the series attach to load
loop wires to attach in clockwise direction
use electrical tape around outside of outlet to protect terminals.

Mar 15, 2009 | Cooper Wiring Devices 1301-7B GROUNDING...

1 Answer

Downstairs toilet light switch needs rewiring

Yes, run a black wire from connector (a) to one terminal of your new light fitting if you are installing a metal fitting you will need to connect an earth wire also.

If you are reusing the same pull switch and it is still connected as you describe then the floating end near the light is probably the switched live conductor, so you could connect this to the live terminal of the new light. but be careful it may be live.

Caution always disconnect the power before working on electrical wiring.

Please remember to rate this solution.

Dec 07, 2008 | Electrical Supplies

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