My motor on my fan has locked up. It appears that the magnet is keeping it from spinning. Can it be fixed?

1st thing to check is the lid switch in the right front corner. It is magnetic and keeps the motor from running when the lid is up. If it goes bad----no run. Next would be the motor itself or the main control board. Either is expensive. Sometimes the motor goes into a lock out mode and can sometimes be reset. The procedure is in the wiring diagram inside the control panel on top.

no
water pumps when in good condition have a resistance to spinning freely from the load on the seal at the back of the impeller /or seal on the motor shaft and from the magnets in the field material of the motor

Motor coupling is byby. Needs replacing $25 to buy or so remove 2 motor brackets drop motor replace coupling place back. Done unplug electric unit first off course

A common problem is hydraulic locking. This occurs when fuel leaks into the cylinder preventing the piston from rising in the cylinder. Pull the spark plug, cover loosely with a shop rag and WITH IGNITION OFF (some bikes starter will spin with the kill switch in the off position, if yours is one of them, keep the kill switch in the off position when spinning motor to clear the cylinder, otherwise, spin the motor by placing the bike in gear and rolling forward). Careful! if it is indeed hydraulic lock, gas will spew out of the spark plug hole creating a fire hazard. Once you have cleaned up and aired out the cylinder, clip the spark plug lead back on the plug without installing it in the motor. See if it spins. If engine does not spin with plug removed, ensure that engine is not locked up by some other means. (seized piston, broken connecting rod, etc.) If all works OK, replace plug and fire it up.

This is a sign that you have a power wire that is shorted to ground. First check the power wire leading to your fan to see if there is a possible short to ground. Sometimes if the wires are not secure, they can rub up against the spinning fan or melt against the exhaust, and then possibly short against the motor or frame. If the wires appear to be o.k., then check the fan motor to see if it is bad. Try spinning the fan blade manually and if it makes noise or won't spin, replace the motor. Once you isolate the short and repair it, you should be able to install a new fuse with no problem.

mcdevito75 here, Fan Motor appears fine while running, once shut off won"t strart again, fan needs help in starting, If so replace, the fan motor. See your local A/C repair shop, they come to the house.

Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.
The fan motor could have been your problem all the time, because if the fan doesn't come on or runs slow, it causes high head pressure,
which causes high amps, which could trip your breakers.

The bearings are dry. They are not really made to re oil. You can try...Try to take the ends off and get some 3 in1 oil in. That's all it needs



If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

The cooling fan for the condenser is probably running, getting hot and seizing up. Check to see if the fan is free spinning after it stops. Take a probe and try to spin it manually. If it turns freely, then it could be going bad with it's electrical windings, the internal coils that create the magnetic field that spins the rotor of the fan motor. I suspect it is seizing up, however, once a fan seizes up, it usually stays that way and won't spin even after it cools down. It could be a capacitor that is going bad and not starting the fan after it gets hot. A capacitor is a small round shaped can type with usually 2 wires hooked in series with the motor it is trying to start. That is what it does, help start the device (compressor or fan motor). Good luck.Ken from Henderson NV.

I had the same problem. It was under warranty...they replaced the main motor, the water/drain pump, the upper control panel and the lower motor control board. All these items cost more than the washer! I read a blog that said it could be the door lock assembly. My door lock assembly was working so I did not think that could be the problem...I took the assembly apart and found out it has a primary magnetic(electrically charged copper coil) lock that activates any time there is movement or water in the machine. That was working. The secondary lock is a wax motor that locks safety locks the magnetic lock during high spin. The wax motor also closes a circuit that tells the main board that it is locked and safe to go into high spin mode. The wax motor was bad...and did not engage so the machine, out of safety would turn off with no Error Message. You can replace the entire door lock mechanism for about $50, or if you wan to take 2 minutes to disassemble the door mechanism and replace the wax motor, it will cost you about $10!
The Neptun wax motor will work...Frigidaire only offers the entire lock mechanism replacement part.

I hope this helps you out!

Steps remove the top panel...Open the washer door....remove the two phillips screws...take off the three terminals. Replace...Should take 10 minutes.