Question about Refrigerators

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I have a dometic rm 2811 and i put in a new board,ever thing seams to work as it should but it will not get cold, there is no boiling sound.Thanks Sid

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  • sidneyboatin Sep 18, 2008

    I don't hear a fan, and there is no frost build up i don't think the dometic rm2811 has a fan. this is in a rv.

  • sidneyboatin Sep 18, 2008

    This is a gas ac dc refrig, does this have a compreser.I don't see one and there is no fan.

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Dear Sir/Madam,

1) A fan blowing air over the coils may help some.
2) Make sure your rig is level. Dometic is more sensitive to out-of-level conditions than Norcold.
3) Make sure the door is completely closed, with no gaps in the gasket.
4) DON'T OPEN THE DOOR ANY MORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY! These refrigs take a LONG time to cool off, and every time you open the door you probably lose 5 degs. Keep those items you need to frequently access (milk, drinks, etc.) in an ice chest.

You might open the outside access door to your refrig and feel the coils; if they're hot it means the cooling unit is trying the best it can to cool. If the coils aren't hot it means the unit isn't on, which
suggests a thermostat or circuit board problem.

click this link for more information....

http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/does_not_get_cold.htm




thanks
good luck

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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It sounds like there is a problem in the Thermostat or condenser fan motor.Please check there two parts.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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Hi,

I am assuming that since you were able to initially diagnose, replace the board that you have a working knowledge of electronic/electrical components and circuitry, Additionally, you would already have performed the common initial checks.

As to your concern:

  • is the replacement board an exact match? I was aware that some versions of the popular P-711 Control Boards manufactured by Dinosaur Electronics are not compatible with RM 2811 whose original part number is 3850415.01;
  • perhaps this article may shed additional insights.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

  • Anand Kumar
    Anand Kumar Sep 18, 2008

    Cooling unit blockages

    When a cooling unit malfunctions due to a blockage, the boiler
    section may be too hot to touch and the absorber will be relatively
    cool. Any blockage reduces the free flow of the solutions and will
    inhibit or completely prevent proper operation.


    A blockage is caused when the fridge is operated in an off level
    condition. The heat that is generated by the propane flame or the
    electric heating element is the force that initiates the cycling of the
    solutions inside the cooling unit. This action is similar to the
    familiar coffee percolator where the water is lifted by the heat and
    flows by gravity down over the coffee grounds.


    The
    refrigerator depends on gravity to move the solutions through the
    system once the heat source has lifted the solutions to the top of the
    cooling unit. The passages that the solution must travel through have
    only a slight slope to them and any off-level condition will hinder
    this gravity flow. Parking on a hill, with your refer running while you
    go off to lunch, starts the degradation of the system and every time
    you do this, it adds up. There is no way to reverse this problem.



    What happens in this situation, is that the solution in the cooling
    unit gets overheated, and a component of this solution crystallizes and
    becomes solid particles that float around and lodge where they're not
    supposed to.


    Tipping the refer upside down, may or may not, dislodge the
    particles, but they are still in there and will (sooner or later) plug
    things up again.


    You have two choices ... replace the cooling unit (new or recharged) or replace the entire refrigerator.


    A new refer or a new cooling unit, comes with a one year warranty.
    In my area, a rebuilt cooling unit comes with a five year warranty -
    figure that one out!


    Leaking Cooling Unit
    If the boiler is warm and the absorber is hot this indicates that a
    leak has developed and the hydrogen gas has escaped. The liquid ammonia
    does not change to a vapor without the hydrogen gas atmosphere and
    circulates as a liquid. A strong ammonia smell is a definate sign of a
    leak. The cooling unit must be replaced or re-built.

    There is a chemical called sodium chromate in the solution that
    circulates inside the cooling unit. It is there to prevent the
    ammonia/hydrogen/water solution from corroding the steel tubing. If a
    leak developes, this chemical changes from a liquid state to a powder
    in the presence of air. A yellow residue on the outside of the cooling
    unit indicates a leak.


    Advanced testing methods
    Dometic recommends the following method for testing the cooling unit:


    1. Make sure the unit is level.

    2. Hook up the 110 VAC element directly to a 110 volt source, in
    effect bypassing the thermostat and control systems. To do this, locate
    the two white wires coming from the 110 volt heating element. The
    heating element is located in the cylindrical tin casing surrounding
    the burner flu, and is accessible through the removable panel on the
    side of the casing. If you have a three way refer there should be two
    elements side by side. The 12 volt element can be identified by noting
    the way the wires are connected. The 12 volt element has one wire
    connected directly to the element and the other wire connects with a
    spade type of terminal. The 110 volt element has both wires connected
    directly to the element. Also, if you fully remove the elements, the
    voltage will be stamped on the casing.


    Disconnect the two wires at the terminal block and connect these
    wires directly to a 110 volt source. If you are not comfortable or sure
    about what you are doing, then this test is best left to your RV
    Technician.


    3. Place a thermometer in a glass of water and place in the food
    compartment. It is important to use the glass of water for this test as
    it equalizes the temperature reading.


    4. After 12 hours the temperature should be 43 deg. F or less.

    5. After 24 hours the temperature should be between the low 20's to high 30's maximum.
    If these temperatures are not reached and maintained, then the the cooling unit is faulty and should be replaced or rebuilt.


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There is chance that the back panel in the freezer is frosted up then it indicates a defrost problem. If no frost listen for the fan in the freezer.
If you don't hear it then it may be the problem.
Not circulating the cold air.


Thanks for using Fixya


SAM ANDERSON

Posted on Sep 18, 2008

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