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New saw = tight pivot points where the saw meets the shoe. You have one in the front and one in the rear. As long as you are sure that the bevel adjustment lever has loosened its grip on the quadrant. You can spray the pivot points with some wd-40 or even attempt to muscle the shoe to get the pivot points broke lose. Just not so much that you separate the shoe from the saw.
If you still cannot get it I would return it for another one.
Not a real good sign. Depending on the make and model you might be better off just replacing the saw. It sounds like either the field or the armature in the motor is burning up if not both of them.
It most likely is the gears that are bad. Usually it sounds real bad first and you can hear the grinding gears. Sometimes spindles snap. You might have a hard time buying parts for Craftsman stuff. And often times it might not be worth it. First take the blade and flanges off. Around the spindle there should be screws holding the spindle hub onto the body. Un screw that and take a look inside. (There might be a retaining ring holding that on too)
If you can see broken gears or metal shavings inside, then you'll need new gears. Always replace the two gears that run together as a set. And of course replace the grease so you don't have metal shavings in there.
It will be the brush holder in the motor has broken.......Ive just had my 4th brush holder break up, The design of them is rubbish!
Im planning on making a hole on the motor casing to accept proper brushes, Ive taken them apart and replaced the broken brush with one out of another motor and bought a faulty one for the brush holder.
If I understand correctly, your saw arm is all the way down and it won't raise so you can cut wood?
There is usually a small pin located at the pivot ... it is usually a steel cylinder about 1/4" in diameter that pushes in and out, sometimes it has a ring on the end ... use your fingers and pull it out. The lock pin is used when transporting or storing the chop saw.
One of my old chop saws, the pin got stuck and we had to tear it out with vice grips. And now the thing is hard to carry around or store because it's always open.
If this is a new saw >>> i want you to understand something about safety that I learned >>> there is a strong human instinct to reach in with your hand >>> to avoid this instinct takes practice >>> train you mind to be very slow with these saws >> no rush >> plenty of time to be deliberate >> wait for the saw to come to a full stop >> hope this helped > fyi, I hear that it doesn't hurt when cutting off a finger because it happens so fast, but that's what I've heard.
Check the blade centre bolt for corrct tightness. If you have fitted a new blade, check to see if it is the type with a removable centre spacer (multi fit type) if it is, it sounds like the centre bolt has bee overtightened at some stage and deformed the spacer which now takes all the drive from the motor instead of the blade itself. Try giving the spacer a light file to remove any burrs. If all else fails, obtain a new blade which doesn't have the center spacer to avoid this problem
The nut that clamps the blade on has left hand threads so you have to tighten it in a counter-clockwise direction and you will have to use a screwdriver or similar object to put in one of the teeth to keep the blade from turning. Some blades have a ho;le in them for this purpose and if so you can use a big nail to get the same result. good luck