What setting are the three threads set on for a rolled hem on a singer ultralock l4sh654 and what is the lever by the plate for?

I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

Hello Monica Trail

Yes, the 14U34 will do a beautiful rolled hem! Instructions begin on page 26 of the manual which can be downloaded at http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/c3e39bce98fa1e2c9c9b9f603c3365a0d5fd8dc2.pdf

Enjoy rolling!
Sewingirl/

Customer Support ,,

I tried to find this on the Juki website but its obviously a previous model so not much info on there. But did find it listed elsewhere as a 3/4 thread overlocker.

So I'd guess at the following, it probably seams a four thread marrow (overlock seam) made with two needles and two loopers. And a three thread overlock seam where you use either the left or right needle, this would give you either a narrow or wider 3 thread seam. Image below of 3 and 4 thread overlock seams.


Lastly, I would suggest that the D denotes Differential feed, this is a feature that controls the two feed dogs in the machine and gives you the ability to set them to move at different speeds - very handy to control the fabric feeding but also used decoratively for lettuce edging.

Rolled hem - most overlockers of 3/4 variety will also do a rolled hem; however, I can't actually confirm if this model does or not. But look around for a retractable stitch ****** in the foot or needle plate or a second needle plate in the accessory case. Rolled hemming is also very useful and most models will do it now; just variation in how you actually set it up to do so. Bernettes you flick a lever in front of the needle/foot area, earlier Elnas like the L3 and L4 you needed to change the needle plate and a little ****** in the presser foot.

Of course, you could email the local distributor for Juki in your country and ask them and this may be the best way to check. Just copy this into your browser
http://www.juki.co.jp/juki_form/home_e/toiawase_form.html to go to their contact us page.

A rolled hem on any overlocker is formed by using the right hand needle only, and the two loopers to form a narrow three thread seam. You also need to retract the seam width finger as Trial2962 said. This is a little finger that sits on the stitching plate and the loopers form the stitching over it. By retracting it, the looper threads can form a narrow seam and in fact, roll the fabric inside the seam. You need to move the cutting blade as far right as it will go so you are trimming as wide as possible from the needle, turn the tension on the top looper rigth down to 2 so it is very loose and this thread wraps around to the underside. And tighten the lower looper tension to about 7 so it hardly shows and sits right up against the needle thread. Adjust and test until you get the seam looking like this, then turn the stitch length dial (on the right side by flywheel) down to 0.5 to close the seam right up tight. Lastly, if you can source it in the right colour, buy woolly overlock thread and run this through the upper looper only, this thread is fluffy and when not under tension, relaxes and "fills" out so the seam appears like a continuous coverage over the fabric.

You will need to practice a few runs and go slowly on corners, a curve is obviously much easier to serge than a right hand cover so if you can, cut the fabric with curved ends, much easier to get a great finish. When you chain off at the end, you need to unravel the tail threads and pull them inside the seam for a few mm with a needle to get a smooth finish, then trim the tail and seal with a drop of Fray Stop.

no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Assuming you mean a narrow rolled edge:

1. Remove the left needle and thread.
2. Open both the front and side covers.
3. Raise the presser foot and the upper knife to the highest position.
4. Clear the stitch fingers.
5. Push the stitch with former release lever and remove the stitch former from the lower knife base. (Don't lose it!)
6. Turn the stitch with adjusting dial until the "M" on the dial matches the red indicator on the needle plate.
7. Set the stitch width length to "M".
8. Close the covers, lower the presser foot and the upper knife.

This gives you a narrow edge. To roll the edge, increase the tension of the lower looper (the green knob) about three numbers higher than normal.

Check to make sure that your plug is okay, then check that you have it set for a stitch, length and threaded right. Look at your manual

You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!