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Re: 12W7-3 JL AUDIO SUB
Ok well sounds like u beat the snont out of it but call jl up and tell them whatz going on with it sorry cant tell what i can tell u is take it easy oon the sub if ur smelling oders from the sub its getting ready to blow so just keep it down
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the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water
Having your subs in well-designed and constructed enclosures will make as much or more difference in their output than how you connect them to an amp.
The TS-SW1241D's are single voice coil 4 ohm shallow subwoofers that are rated for 350 watts RMS. For maximum loudness, your JL amp needs to be 2 ohm stable and capable of delivering 700 watts RMS into that impedance. Wire the subs in parallel for a 2 ohm load and maximum power from the amp.
Unless your amp is stable below 1 ohm, there's really only one wiring solution. And that is to series the voice coils making each sub 8 ohms, then parallel all 3 subs to the amp for a 2.67 ohm load. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the impedance will be 0.67 ohms, much too low for most amps.
You could parallel the voice coils and then series the subs for a 6 ohm load, but the amp won't put as many watts into a 6 ohm load. Most are optimized for 4 ohms or 2 ohms. And it's not good to run subs in series anyway.
the rottem electronic smell is the voice coil burned up as well as the bad sound, isn't the 1st time i have seen a JL sub blown. not worth fixing buy a new one the cost is not that much more repair on them is 250 - 450 depending on how bad it is and only JL can do the repairs as they dont authorize repair shops access to their voice coils. however i can sell you a new sub with full JL factory warranty drop shipped to your door for about 475$ or I could do you a way better sub ( the baddest competion sub made in the last 5 years) an olympus 2412 dual 2 ohm 5000 watt monster that has user replaceable voice coil options and is killing the competition circuit right now for about $275.00 shipped. it will stomp 2 13 w7's into the ground all day long. 2 subs vs just 1
Unfortunately, it sounds like the voice coils burnt up. There are places that do repair, but for these particular subs, it would be more cost efficient to replace them. I also doubt they are salable, but ebay is a magical place.....