Question about Mitsubishi WD-52327 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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Dull colors, dim images

I just replaced the DLP lamp which was definitely gone. However, I had my CRT set sitting next to the Mits, and the CRT picture is much brighter, especially the whites. No amount of adjusting seems to make things brighter.

Another tech on this forum suggested removing and cleaning the screen of dust, and there had been plenty of that around the TV. Is there another suggestion before I try to remove and clean the screen?

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  • AZChas Sep 17, 2008

    The replacement lamp came from DLPXPress, and it is the same as the original (Osram). I can't compare to the old lamp which has failed completely, but the picture initially semed dimmer than before the lampo change. I reset the unit to factory defaults which made things better. The default brightness setting is full on (63). I would have noticed the difference in picture even without the comparison which was striking.



    Thanks for talking me out of removing the screen. Still, I'd like to see some "ideal" settings for this model TV to see how that looks. How can I clean the mirror behind the screen?

  • rrdp22 Feb 05, 2009

    I had a warranty on Samsung DLP and they changed the lamp 4 months ago along with the ballast. The picture wasn't bright and the lamp blew so I replaced it using an osram bought on line for $139.. My picture is excellent again. I believe the repair co. that replaced the lamp used an old one from another tv.

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Where did you buy the lamp at? Does it look the same or worse than when the old lamp was in there and working? Is there a big difference or if there wasnt another tv sitting next to it mabe you wouldnt notice? Also you dont need to clean the screen, that could damage it. If you are going to clean anything you will need to clean the mirror behind the screen.

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

  • experttv
    experttv Sep 17, 2008

    Do you know what company you bought the lamp from? was it straight from mitsu or another vender? Also to clean the mirror you will still most likely need to take the screen off but you do not want to clean the inside of the screen because its not really a screen its a lense and you will damage it significantlly, you only want to clean the mirror. As for settings the factory default is what I would reccomend. theres alot of hype about perfect settings and all that but to be honest with you i dont see a difference and I look at anywhere from 10 to 20 tv's a day in my shop and field.

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2. With the lamp removed look where it faces at the color wheel, no missing segments or the set when on does not have a high pitched or fan like sound. If the wheel is turning too slow for any reason the set will soon detect that and shut off.

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Here is a quick test....

Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence section.

Try to adjust the red and then the blue convergence.



You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.

If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.

2c07611.pngSolution #1

You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors. Check the site www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kits for most models. If you don't see a kit for your set send them a quick note and they will put one together for you. Their kits include a photo instruction guide, original OEM Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, etc.


Problem #2 CRT Fluid is Cloudy

Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.

Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.

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TV set after fluid change

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2c07611.pngSolution #2


What you will need to do is replace the coolant and clean the crt. You can get a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com that includes replacement coolant, photos. instructions, etc.

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Mitsubishi Caps cause dim Picture faulty capacitor issue in the WD-52525 does seem to be prevalent at the 3 yr mark. At the bottom of this long-winded comment is a link to another discussion forum similar to this one where we obtained the service manual, chassis replacement manual, and encouragement to attempt the repair ourselves. My husband and I are not experts by any means, but my husband did have the tools from previous electronics projects to solder. So we took a chance on looking for bad caps. And I am here to say that I’m so glad we did because there were 2 obviously swollen caps that were easy to replace. The picture is now even better than when the problem first occurred since we dusted the mirrors and screens while we were in there. NO WINDEX. Just a dry micro-fiber cloth did the trick. We'll probably do that annually going forward.

According to descriptions from several people, the symptoms and degrading image due to capacitor failure can take various forms. In our case, we had a lamp blow out 2 wks before the TV died. And I do mean blow out, not burn out. We didn't get any lamp replacement warning. It flat out blew the 1-yr old bulb to shards of glass inside the casing. We replaced the bulb with a brand new one like good stewards of a DLP HDTV should do. A mere couple of weeks later we watched the image degrade over the course of an hour through various stages until the new lamp simply wouldn't light anymore and there was a solid black screen and solid red lamp light even though the lamp itself was fine. The trouble-shooting diagnostics (pressing MENU and DEVICE buttons on the front panel) gave the 3-4 code indicating a lamp abnormality. But ultimately the problem was solved by replacing the C9A37 & C9A38 caps (both are 10V 3300M-M 105C). We did not have to do any repairs on lamp or ballast components. The cost of 2 new capacitors from Digi-Key including shipping was about $14.50.

Some folks have stated that they were able to do the repair without removing the power supply chassis from the back of the TV. That was not the case for us. It was a bit intimidating at first. But we disassembled everything, labeling as we went, so we could freely inspect and access all boards on the power supply. There are some tiny, very hard-to-reach connections between the power supply and the ballast. For this reason, I also recommend disassembling those ballast components from the frame. They're simply too fragile to force in a very tight space when reconnecting.

Lastly, I am still pleased with this TV. The color and clarity can not be rivaled in my opinion. Even after having gone through this, compared to the problems reported in some of the other threads on issues with whatever other brand name or model you pick, this is a relatively easy repair that can be DIY. This was why we went DLP in the first place. And it is why we will probably remain DLP fans until they aren't made anymore. But next time, we’ll go with an extended warranty for sure!

I do wish Mitsubishi would at least acknowledge the issue. I don't even expect any reimbursement, replacement, refund or anything like that. I'd just like to know that THEY know there's a simple problem to resolve and that they're doing something about it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...=418307&page=84

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