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Posted on Sep 17, 2011
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My 1986 gsxr 1127 slingshots hydraulic clutch will not release tried bleeding it runs fine goes into gear fine release the clutch and im not moving help me

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Steve Banks

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  • Expert 232 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2011
Steve Banks
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Joined: Jul 29, 2011
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The great thing about hydraulic clutches is that they are maintenance free when running OK. Plus you don't need to adjust your clutch ever.
The bad thing is when they foul up it creates problems.

First things first:
Step one: Clean the sludge out of your clutch reservoir.
Step two: bleed your clutch until only clean fluid comes out the bleeder.
Step three: Get a cable clamp and clamp off your cable where it enters your clutch slave cylinder. something like this http://www.getprice.com.au/Stanley-Hose-Clamp-Small-Gpnc_500--54170237.htm
Step four: Remove the banjo bolt holding the cable to the slave cylinder then, remove the clutch slave cylinder. (3 or more bolts).
Step five: clean all the sludge and junk out of your slave cylinder. Check any seals for damage and serviceability. (replace seals/gaskets if required)
Also you might be able slide your clutch actuator rod out and check it for straightness and undue wear. Lightly oil it and put it back in.
Step six: Put it all back together, remove the clamp.
Step seven: Bleed your clutch again to refil your slave cylinder.

Your bike should now like it used to.
If however it doesn't, grap a hold of your hydraulic hose about a 1/3rd of the way down in one hand and work the clutch lever with the other. What your feeling for is the hose excessively pulsing in your hand. If it does that consider upgrading to stainless steel lines cheaper in the long run.
Otherwise it will be a side cover off job and check your clutch plates, friction plates for burn marks and your springs to see if they have compressed to much.

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Starting my truck with the shifter in gear an the clutch pressed it trys to go in what ever position the shifter is in.It is also getting harder to shift in to the next gear.

try fixing the clutch problem by bleed out the air if hydraulic or replacing the cable if cable operated
it indicates that the clutch is not being released when the foot is on the pedal
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I have a 1986 chevy 2500 was getting hard to put into gear. No it wont go into gear at all. Is it the clutch or bell housing?

I would be inspecting the clutch operation and bleeding any air out
have some one press the clutch pedal all the way down and see how far the throw out arm moves
if the hydraulics are working ok then the arm should move back around the length of the slave cylinder body
if it is only a bit then replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and bleed the system
the point here is it is cheaper to do this rather than pull the box and replace the clutch kit
there will be no waste as you will need a hydraulic system in good condition for the new pressure plate pressure.
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Having trouble getting in gear.Can start in gear and drive. ps shifts fine once in gear

Evidently a manual? It sounds like your clutch is not releasing fully. This could be a sticky clutch plate but is more likely a maladjusted release (if cable operated) or it needs bleeding (if hydraulic release)
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How will a 1991 chevy truck transmission clutch behave if the clutch disk was accidentally installed backwards?

First of all you said that the disk is in backwards. If this is the case, then it's possible that the friction plate is grinding on the flywheel and isn't transmitting any drive to the gearbox input shaft.
If you are certain that your friction plate has been installed the wrong way around, then you MUST do the job again and re-install. Im most cases an incorrect installation should have been obvious as the clutch cover plate would most often be difficult to tighten down and the friction plate would often be very difficult to align before tightening down the cover plate.

My guess is that you perhaps have another issue. You may have an issue with the release bearing, or release lever/assembly. I am not familiar with your model of vehicle, but does it have a clutch cable or hydraulic action? If it's a cable, then make certain that the cable has been re-adjusted after the new clutch plate install. If your adjustment is too tight then your clutch is basically disengaged and your car won't drive. If it's too loose, then you won't be able to disengage the clutch.
If you have a hydraulic system, then first try bleeding any air from the system and try operating the clutch once more.


Additional questions:

1) Can you select gears with the engine turned off? If no, then check your gear selector mechanism for fitment and operation.

2) If a gear can be selected, then with the vehicle started, does the vehicle move? If no, then check clutch cable adjustment, or remove gearbox and check friction plate, and cover fitment as well as release bearing operation.

3) When you hear a creak in the bell-housing, is the engine running or not running? If not running, then check clutch cable adjustment or bleed hydraulic lines and try again. If no luck, then remove gearbox and start again.
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I have a 1993 Mazda Protege it is really hard to put in any of the gears while the engine is running but while engine is off it goes in all gears fine what would be the best quickest fix should I change...

Try bleeding first. The bleed port is at the right of the pic below. Here is the procedure: HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

  1. Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw on the release cylinder.
  2. Place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.
  3. Submerge the other end of the tube in a jar half filled with hydraulic brake fluid.
  4. Slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and allow it to return slowly, several times.
  5. While pressing the clutch pedal to the floor, loosen the bleeder screw until the fluid starts to run out. Then close the bleeder screw. Keep repeating this Step, while watching the hydraulic fluid in the jar. As soon as the air bubbles disappear, close the bleeder screw.
  6. During the bleeding procedure the reservoir must be kept at least 3 / 4 full.

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Hi, you probably have air in the hydraulic line. Check the clutch hydraulic reservoir (next to the brake reservoir)--is it empty? If yes, refill and look for a leak. Repair the leak and bleed the system to restore pedal pressure. If you need instruction for replacing components or bleeding, please let me know.
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The clutch lever should have some tension, so could be a problem with the hydraulic actuator stuck, or a failure of the clutch. try bleeding the clutch, or pull the clutch cover off and see if the pressure plate moves
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hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further
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