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It is likely that Phil has an old school Shimano Eagle rear derailleur.
I recently had a very similar issue with a Suntour friction shifter and derailleur. I tried replacing the shift cable and housing with no luck. Then I was told to replace the chain. Made no difference.
Then I took a closer look at my bike's shifter. I took my old one apart and the gear teeth that were supposed to keep the shifter from moving were worn down.
the derailleur cable is too loose. Shift the shifter into the smallest cog, make sure the chain is on the smallest cog. The derailleur cable will most likely be very slack now. At the rear derailleur, there will be a nut or a allen bolt pinching the cable to the derailleur. loosen this, pull the cable finger tight, tighten the nut or bolt again and then try shifting again. You can dial it in using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur or the shifter.
You can't have end-to-end intact cable movement and NOT move the derailleur unless it is NOT tight to begin with. Look closer.
You need to figure out at which end the problem lies.
You can elevate the rear wheel (or hang the bike by the tip of the seat on a low branch) and pedaling it forward with your hand you can grab the bare exposed cable somewhere in its routing (usually along the down tube) and pull sideways on it (away from the bike) to see if the derailleur moves as expected when the cable REALLY moves. Then you can decide if the shifter is or is not controlling the cable.
Is the shifter too tight or the cable not flowing freely in the housing?
Shift it to the position that relaxes the cable and manipluate the affected derailleur to see if the cable allows it to instantly spring to its relaxed state. If it doesn't you need the cable(s) serviced and/or replaced.
adjust barrel on rear mech clockwise till gear shifts click brake lrver for next gear repeat same as before with barrel. If this fails stat from bottom og cassette but adjust barrel anti-clockwise to obtain gears.
Keeping a derailleur in a given gear is the shifter's job. If the shift lever/mechanism doesn't click and stay where you place it, something is wrong internally. It will need to be replaced if, for example, a SRAM MRX grip slid away and let the guts fall out.
Whatever your particular dilemma, look for a friendly local bicycle shop to see what they can do for you. I replaced the entire MRX shifter set for a friend using an upgraded and better designed Shimano setup for under $25 and my own labor. But then, I'm an old hand at working on bikes.
You can use the 6 speed rear derailleur with no problems. The 5-spd shifter does not need to be disabled, as it will work just fine.
The shifter controls the rear derailleur, telling it how far to move. The rear derailluer just follows what is dictated, so there is no real difference mechanically between the 5spd and 6spd derailleurs, only in the shifter.
If you wanted to make the bike 6spd, you would have to change the shifter and gears along with the derailleur.
The 5703 shifters will work both derailleurs and match the 6603 group as they are both 10spd.
The Tiagra will not work because it is 9spd, it will functionally shift the derailluer but you will not be able to line up the gearing.
The rear shifter needs to match the number of gears on the back (cassette) in the case of the 6603 group that is 10spd, so you can use any 10spd rear shifter from shimano. The Tiagra is either an 8spd or 9spd depending on the model and will not work with the cassette. You can use a 6603 rear derailleur with a Tiagra group, as long as the shifter and cassette are both the same.
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