Question about Washing Machines
This is a symptom of a broken motor coupling. The following link provides you with step-by-step instructions on how to replace one:
Many of the original motor couplings were all made of plastic. The center hole that mounts on the drive motor shaft would start to form cracks and eventually break. A new modified motor coupling was manufactured with a steel grommet to prevent this from happening. The link has the new part number at the bottom of the page. You can order this part online at searspartsdirect.com by typing in your model number and locating item number 13 under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor and Pump" heading. Or, take the part number provided to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common part they do carry.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have questions or require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like the motor coupling has broken, fairly inexpensive part but does require some finesse to install. let me know if you decide to attempt it.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
HELLO...I HAVE A KENMORE 110 WASHER, LETS WATER IN BUT DOES NOT SPIN. PLEASE HELP. SYLVIA
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin.
The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small,
relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts.
If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed.
As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all.
If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor.
For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other.
It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other.
If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool®
have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective,
the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem,
you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized.
These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem,
you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety,
washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed.
The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up."
Please give me a good rating for the sound advice , before you sign off.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
SOURCE: washer doesn,t spin
Looks like chat support session must have timed out. The answer to your last question was, yes, pres. analog switch with a red, a white, and a blue wire to it.
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
I have seen this problem numerous times on service calls. It sounds like you have a siphoning problem. The key symptom is the wash tub that continously attempts to fill, but cannot achieve the proper water level. This is often caused by not having an air gap on your drain line, improper placement of the drain hose, or a standpipe that is too small in diameter. The following link explains:
If you place the drain hose in the standpipe too far, or seal the top of the standpipe, this can cause a vacuum which will cause the symptoms you describe. A tell-tale sign will be a sucking noise as you pull the drain hose from the standpipe. Read through the link I provided. If this does not correct your problem please post back and let me know before you rate this solution. This way I can try to assist you further. I hope this corrects your problem.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
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