Question about Mitsubishi WS-65513 65" Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Blue screen-w/ok menu

Have model #65513 and replaced the cap's that caused blinking green light and that lasted for about 6 months and now this new problem. I'm no expert with multimeter's. What I did is set meter to 200 acv and attached leads to both ends of ic9c25 with the set unplugged it read 0. plugged in it read 2.3 when I turned set on it read 1.7. If I did it right does anyone know if those readings indicate a bad IC? Recommend replacing the capacitors next to it with the same kind?. If you recommend replacing are there any tips on procedures. I replaced the Dm board caps fairly easily. Thank you!

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  • thegrother5
    thegrother5 Sep 15, 2008

    The IC is a BA09FP. This IC supplies 9 volts to the
    terminal board. part#270p677030. It has 3 leads. Could you explain how to properly measure this IC if I havn't already fried any circuits. Just my luck! I have a good picture of this IC if I knew how to upload it to this thread or email for reference.

  • thegrother5
    thegrother5 Sep 19, 2008

    First off let me thank you for your time on this matter. But I have to tell you i'm no expert when it comes to this. I could tell just about anything you want to know about surfing but electronics is not my thing. Well if you could walk me thru testing the regulator that way I could order a new one. The reason the regulator is suspect is from other website experts(?) I have a cen-tech 7 function digital multimeter. I have id'd the pins 1,2 and 3 not sure what i'm measuring though. Thank you!

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison May 11, 2010

    Not enough info: what is the type number of the IC you are checking? The number you gave isn't the right structure for the Asian PN system.
    If you can read it and post it, then the numbers you gave might be more meaningful.


    Also 'both ends' of an IC doesn't make any sense. 
    'Integrated circuits' have at least three leads and most have far more.


    If you are measuring in a switched mode power supply section, you can do terminal (as in death) damage to the meter or the circuit.
    There are high frequencies present there that your multimeter can't deal with correctly and the meter's influence can cause some circuits to fry.

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 5,568 Answers

I'm pulling up a link while typing; the device is a fixed voltage regulator with some DC input voltage applied, ground (chassis common) and an output of a stable 9 volts DC.These are generally referred to as '3-terminal' regulators.There won't be any significant AC on any pin if operating normally.
You can get the data sheet as a .pdf file here:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-datasheets/Datasheets-pdf-14/275663.html

You probably have Adobe Reader which you will need to open the file.
The term 'low saturation' refers to the range of DC it requires to regulate as intended; early ICs of this design needed more 'headroom' to enter into the region of stable regulation.
Looking at the marked side, the #1 pin is to the left; #3 to the right. #2, the center pin is grounded to common (chassis) and if you measure resistance from #2 to any point attached to the broadest traces you can see on the solder-side of the board, it should read close to 0 Ohms (power off for this measurement!).  Measuring resistance on these parts won't yield much unless the part is shorted, a pretty uncommon condition and one that is not as easy to predict as one could with a diode or transistor.
The input lead is #1 and should be well above 9 volts DC if measured to the center pin; the output lead, #3 should have ~9 volts DC referenced as before to the center pin or chassis common.
Any AC you measure on any pin is meaningless, just noise.
I think you will find the part OK since these regulators are quite reliable when used in sensibly designed circuits.
      

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison Sep 19, 2008

    If you follow the last paragraph -


    The input lead is #1 and should be well above 9 volts DC if measured to the center pin; the output lead, #3 should have ~9 volts DC referenced as before to the center pin or chassis common. 
    Any AC you measure on any pin is meaningless, just noise.




    - you should be able to determine whether the part is healthy or not.


    The whole purpose of this part is to receive something well above 9 volts on pin #1, typically it will range from 12-20 volts of DC, and make a stable 9 DC volts of it at pin #3 independent of load or input voltage variations as long as it doesn't dip below ~ 10.5 DC volts.  
    All regulators of this type need some 'headroom' since there are unavoidable voltage drops within the part itself. This part was designed to reduce that internal voltage drop as much as possible. 

  • Jack Eagers
    Jack Eagers Jun 17, 2011

    Just replaced the regulator. Worked fine for a while then horizontal bands started moving vertically through the picture. Found noise on the 9V output with a scope. Resoldered the ground tab and now it works great. No blue screen, horizontal hold problems or bands in the picture. Thanks!

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison Jun 18, 2011

    HOORAY! Good Lord, I confess I didn't even remember this problem but I'm glad I could be of assistance.
    The bill is in the mail

  • thegrother5
    thegrother5 Jan 24, 2013

    Hello Steve, i guess i'm a little late on this but wanted to thank you for all th input on this matter. it worked for awhile after replacing the IC . It bought me some time to save up for a new flat screen. Thanks!

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