Suzuki dt2 i have a suzuki dt2 outboard ,it starts ok but when throttled down it cuts out,also at full throttle is runs erratically any ideas i thought maybe a fuel mixture -airscrew setting,.what ratio of petrol -oil.have been told its 100-1 but i think this is too high and may cause engine seizure, thanks Dave.
First, I'd check the routing on your throttle cable. make sure that at left and right turn, it has slack and no tight spots. Assuming your fuel stystem is clean, that pretty much leaves a ground/short problem somewhere. The fact that it happens at left turn tells me it's in the wiring that routes through the controls- perhaps the kill switch wiring. Something somewhere has rubbed the insulation off the wiring, and it's being moved when you turn left, so it shorts against metal. This will be the same metal point that rubbed it raw. A. Check the throttle cable routing. Move the bars back and forth, and watch for a tight spot. B. Check your wirinig harness from the bars to the main wiring harness, and look for signs of rubbing or wear.
assuming you are not out of oil in your oil reservoir you probably have a bad sending unit in the reservoir. never bypass it or eliminate it as you could permanently damage your motor or ruin it if you ran it out of oil.
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Did you run it out of fuel for the down times? 30,60 90 days of down time. If not, first plan on buying a gasket set for the carb. Pull the carb and clean it. Inside and out, soak it in carb cleaner and blow out all ports/holes. Some times you have to manually clean the ports. I use a acetline torch tip cleaner to do carbs.
the clutch adjustment could cause this issue , to adjust unscrew the clutch cable lock nut at the lever and screw the inner nut out then try gear change , do not for get to retighten the lock nut , it's just like a bycyle brake adjustment
if no compression could be a bent , cracked ,damaged valves, hole in piston, broken piston, broken connecting rod,
NO I DONT THINK YOU WANT TO BUY IT .unless its for parts your buying a padoras box of junk ,pull the plug and look it over for damage ,heavy oil ,if your getting no I mean "O" compression you'll have to do a full tare down. to find problem ,if seller says its an eazy or not expencive repair have him do it .
I believe, but am not sure if the 'silver' is paint over the black cover. If it is, the way I repaired by own, may help you.
A large (8 metre) branch fell on my Thule box splitting the upper carcass in many directions (both seams and field areas), in addition to the complete break of a front lower segment -- see photo. I decided to try and fix it despite finding a replacement. Well I have to say, it worked out great, and it did not involve expensive epoxy, adhesives, hot air welders, or any of the methods most commonly referred to. Thule's cargo boxes are made from ABS plastic. The same black plastic material used for your household domestic waste plumbing systems. Rather than use foreign (non-ABS) material as your binding agent, simply use ABS. By keeping the joint material native, you are essentially re-establishing the continuity of the original material.
Take a small piece of ABS pipe (any scrap will do, just ensure it's ABS -- will say on the side) and grind it down in shavings. I used a rotary cutting tool with a bit that looks like a common router bit for rabbit joinery. This resulted in very small shavings. Accumulate enough shavings and place in a small glass jam jar with a lid. I had to cover roughly 1.5 metres in crack length and found ABS shaving volume equal to a couple marsh mellows to be plenty. Here's the magic.... pour a small amount of Acetone into the jar and stir the contents (do it outside as it fumes) -- add more as needed just to get it to the consistency of carpenter's glue.
After you have bound the cracked segments of your Thule from the outside (I used rubberized packing tape as it has great horizontal field strength but can be removed easily). The tape up job doesn't have to be pretty, just ensure the edges are tight together and the tape is firmly holding it tight. On the inside, use a rotary cutting tool and any cutting bit to grind a trough directly where the cracks are. I went down approximately 3 millimetres and across approximately 8 mills. I left it rough to the touch. Clean the trough with Isopropyl alcohol; let dry.
Using a small paint brush (ones you find in elementary school water colour paint kits are fine) "paint" the trough with the dissolved ABS from your jar. The advantage here is the Acetone in the mixture dissolves the edge of your trough so both the slurry (your mixture) and the hard carcass body are naturally bonding. As you might imagine, the Acetone will evaporate leaving nothing behind but ABS -- as hard as the original, fully bonded to the original material. Once dried, apply additional coats to build up the trough to your preferred profile.
Remove the tape on the outside and you're set. You could apply some sealant to the outer surface of the cracked area, but I did not as keeping it clean to look at on the outside is difficult when adding to the perfectly smooth outer surface.