My makita 6410 started first pull ,cut about three bricks now wont start, it pulls fine and sounds like it wants to start but wont, i think i may have put too much oil in, will this cause this problem, what should i do??

Puzzling, as all my Makita 6410 searches indicate it is a TOOL, not a car. It fact, the only Makita car I can find is a remote toy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUOLnOTVVW4

If you do a search for a Makita car image via Google, guess what. You don't get any cars. So, I am truly baffled by the question. If you truly have such a vehicle, time to call the dealer.

check to make sure you didn't accidentally plug up the exhaust port, or pull a wire lose. I don't think it can be anything else, IF it was running well before you did anything. How long has it been sitting? old gas can gum up carbs and or injectors. IF it was running and replacing the muffler made it not run, all it can be is a plugged exhaust, or a wire erroneously pulled loose.

If the fuel in it is 2 or more months old dump it out and put in fresh fuel and try statring. Also try try a squirt of starting fluid into the carb. If it fires on it you may need to do this a few times to pull the old fuel in the lines through till the fresh fuel can get to the carb.

You can go to the Makita website, they have the manual and parts breakdown available there at: (http://www.makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=477). In my experiance with demo saws, Makita and Stihl are quite equal on operation and most all of them have Husqvarna motors in them anyway. They all have their likes and dislikes as far as starting goes even between the same brand. If you have the decompression valve, a small blue button on the side of the cylinder, use it only if you are having trouble pulling the starter rope over. It lets air leak out of the cylinder to reduce compression to make pulling it over easier. If you need to push it in do so but the most important thing to NOT do is flood the cylinder with gas. Usually you should choke a cold engine and pull the cord until you hear it fire the first time. Turn off the choke and pull untill it starts. If it just will not start, pull the spark plug, dry it off and pull the rope a few times to dry out the cylinder, reinstall the plug and try again. Some motors don't want to be choked at all, some work by turning the choke on and pulling a couple times then turning it off and starting it. Try a couple variations with your saw and when you find a method that works use it.

DPC 6410 http://www.makita.ca/data/upload/tools/DPC6410,%20DPC6411,%20DPC7310,%20DPC7311,%20DPC7320,%20DPC7321,%20DPC8112%20-%20ENG%20&%20FR_owner_English.pdf

First check the brushes and where they touch the armature. If OK, check power at the switch; going in to check the cord, and coming out to check the switch. If all of these check out you have to check the armature on a growler to see if it's shorted out.

Is this a new saw? If yes return it or at least ask for a recommended repair facility. Your saw is actually a Dolmar (owned by Makita) and a fine saw. In order to meet EPA requirements they are set very lean (many 5100s seize with factory settings). To protect your investment and not invalidate your warranty I recommend it be adjusted by the
professional recommended by the merchant where you purchased it or one recommended by Makita.
The starting procedure is probably similar to this:
Start Procedure
Cold:

1. Ignition on/off to on.
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).

Warm:

1. Ignition on/off to on.
2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).

Most new owners miss opening the choke after it tries to start or do not hear the pop when it does and flood the saw.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Piston and cylinder kit Bailey's about $190.00
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=DM+038130030&catID=395
HTH
Lou
This saw can handle up to 79CCs. we can rebuild him ,bigger, faster, LOL HTH
Lou
Sometimes the cylinder can be salvaged with muratic acid. Piston kits are quite reasonable.

Come on, it tooks me 20 seconds to find it...Web search is all about keywords. makita dpc 6410 manual leads to the answer. Adding pdf would have been even better...

First of all, make sure you have followd the correct start up procedure.
(1)Throttle on and locked in start position, (2)choke on and pull a few times. Saw should fire briefly and cut out. (3)Now switch to idle (half choke if applicable) and pull another couple of times. Saw should now fire and run. If you have pulled it too many times in the full choke position you will have flooded the engine. To rectify this you will need two people. One of you should hold the machine steady on the ground with no choke on and throttle fully open. The other should also steady the machine and pull the starter in quick succesion. This could take ten or so pulls but it should start the engine in the case of flooding. Sometimes it will splutter a couple of times before fully starting and it will normally bog down a bit for the first few seconds as it spits out the excess fuel/oil mix.
If you got to point (3) as it shown above, and then the saw wouldn't start, or hadn't fired and died then there could be a few different problems. basic checks are for, clean filter, fresh/clean fuel, clean spark plug (ie, not oily/choked with carbon build up). When checking the spark plug, if it has fuel/oil mix on it then ther is probably aeither a compression problem/air leak or no spark. To check for a spark leave the plug unscrewed but fitted into cap, rest it against a metal part of the saw and pull the starter with the elec switch on. You should see a healthy blue spark. WARNING, do not rest the spark plug near the plug hole as if it does spark it could ignite any fuel/oil mix that is pumped out of the cylinder. I've had many a singed eyebrow from this happening. If there is no spark, check to make sure the cap is attatched securely to the lead,and try repacing the plug. If this doesn't help you will need to get the coil, ht lead and wiring tested.