Model 7600ayw won't start. the terminal block

see this causes and proceed for fix it. God bless you
Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Hello! Check the engine compartment junction block (driers side)...Your vehicle is noted for this problem...Disconnect the (+) battery terminal; Make sure you have the radio code....Visually inspect the block for loose connections...Remove the block from the chassis and look underneath the block for poor connections...Follow the negative (small)l battery lead...It heads to a bolt through the inner fender...Many Sonata's are coming from the factory with that ground bolted to a painted surface...Remove, wire brush to bare metal and re connect...This is a common problem and should solve your starting problem...If this not the fault send a comment...Guru...Saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

red and black conductors to L1 and L2 on dryer terminal block,the white goes to the N or Neutral terminal (normally between the L1 and L2 terminals),then the Green wire connects to the case ground screw or the metal dryer case

maybe the timer motor, here is a website that will help, Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Hi,You have inspected both the baking and broiler heating elements, and you still can't find a problem with your range/oven parts? Inspect the connections between the heating element and the terminal. You could have a badly connected electric wire, or a burned out electric wire. Range/Oven parts must deal with both voltage and extreme heat, so it's a common problem to have a burned wire from time to time. This is a simple fix and if you check this problem in your initial run of troubleshooting, you may save yourself unnecessary purchases of range/oven parts, etc.

Also Voltage Check can be the problem.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

The wire was probably loose on the terminal. This is very typical. Replace the wire end with a new spade clip. Make sure it pushes on to the terminal real good and tight and you probably won't have another problem.

RED and Black wires go to the L1 and L2 terminals on the dryer (either wire on either terminal) the WHITE(neutral)wire goes to the "N" or neutral terminal on this terminal block and the GREEN wire connects anywhere on the units METAL case for a safety ground

keep all the L1 & L2 leads to the outside terminals and only the N wires go in the middle.

If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

L1 Hot= Left terminal (Red Wire) ...... L2 Hot= Right side terminal (Black Wire) .......... Netural = Center terminal (White Wire) .................. Ground is Green connect to the cabniet of the unit and remove the connection strap from the center terminal on thje dryer wiring block..