Trying to install Sunlite HD tourer rear carrier #45772. on a Rand 18 speed. There are no holes for front brackets in frame. Do you just drill the holes?

Hey, Local bike shop determined that both wheels were defective. I took the junk back to Walmart and got a refund... PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Check out https://gearly.org/ for more info.

Thanks.

my mrs is just the same, measure the bike whilst you are sat on it. from the number plate to the floor and also a similar fixed point on the front to the floor (the most forward fairing bolt maybe) jack up bike rear end take a look at the shock mount on swing arm. un do bolt. move shocks position in swing arm bracket until you realise where if the holes where drilled it would secure and the rear wheel would be closer to the seat effectively lowering the rear. drill new holes. start with a small 3mm pilot and move up to i think 10mm was the size. make sure that you don't make these holes to close to the edge of the metal. drill speed real slow and lots of pressure. you are drilling metal and so you need less speed and more push like you are cutting not drilling. once complete refit rear shock bolt in new hole.sit on and take a new measurement of rear number plate to floor. write down the difference between old hight and new height. undo fork leg securing bolts. 10mm socket i think. slide leg up to match the difference on the back. retighten, do the other leg. make sure both legs measure the same!!! measure the front and rear. the rear may change slightly due to angles. readjust until correct. get a small amount cut from the middle of the side stand and have it welded together. ensuring the bike stands right. done, one happy shorty. enjoy.

The picture I found...

http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/6301/4678/push_mtb_standard_black_carrier_rack

looks exactly like a Blackburn rack...

http://www.webersports.com/store/Blackburn-MT-1-Mountain-Rack-P1322C195.aspx

which shows the top attachment hardware better.

The rack connects at both bottom points with screws through pre-drilled holes that are present above the rear wheel dropouts on many road and mountain bikes, but FEW racing frames.

The top front end of the rack uses either one or two of the supplied metal braces to mate it somewhere like a seatstay bridged.

See this, first picture...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luggage_carrier
You may have to get creative with YOUR frame. Don't drill holes in it. Ask a bike shop for options. There are brackets to make up for lack of pre-drilled holes.

There is a hole on each side of the dishwasher about 6" down from the top and in-front of the rubber door seal, with round plastic covers in them. Just pop those covers out and the side mounting brackets align with those holes and the screws go into the wood frame. You may have to put some small blocks of wood on the wood frame to take up some of the space between the side of the dishwasher and the cabinet frame. Be sure to drill pilot holes for the screws to avoid splitting the wood.

This pic does not show all timing marks, but I will paste procedure from autozone.com below.


1996 3.4L Engines


To install:

1. Install the camshaft sprockets finger-tight.
2. Route the timing belt in a counterclockwise direction around the sprockets. Make sure all of the timing belt teeth are fully engaged with all sprockets.
3. Install the timing belt tensioner actuator pulley. Tighten the retaining bolt/screw to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
4. If tensioner oil has been lost, fill the tensioner with synthetic engine oil through the end hole. Fill to the bottom of the plug hole ONLY when the tensioner is fully retracted and the pin is installed.
5. Install the rubber end plug to the rear of the tensioner actuator. Push until flush and snapped into place. Make sure the end plug has sealed against the case.
6. Install the tensioner actuator bushing into the side plate.
7. Install the tensioner actuator and side plate. Make sure the tapered fulcrum of the tensioner actuator is properly seated in the tensioner actuator bracket bushing. Tighten the retaining bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Rotate the pulley into the belt a maximum of 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) to allow engagement of the actuator shaft into the pulley arm socket.

1. Pull the lockpin and discard. Retighten the pulley to 15 Nm counterclockwise to seat the pulley into the belt.
2. Install both right hand (rear bank) camshaft sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm).
3. Remove tool J 38613-A from the right hand (rear bank) camshaft carrier.
4. Rotate the crankshaft 360ºclockwise while looking at the front of the engine and align the crankshaft reference marks.
5. Make sure both right hand camshaft flats are down, then tighten both left hand (front bank) camshaft sprockets to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm).
6. Remove tool J 38613-A from the left hand (front bank) camshaft carrier.
7. Rotate the crankshaft 720ºclockwise while looking at the front of the engine to seat the timing belt and verify correct timing. Make sure both camshaft flat spots are up on one band and down on the opposing bank.
8. Install the camshaft carrier covers.
9. Connect the breather hose to the rear camshaft cover and crankcase vent to the breather manifold.
10. Install the camshaft timing belt covers, as outlined earlier in this information.
11. Install the fuel line bracket and bolt.
12. Install the wiring harness cover at the right strut tower.
13. Connect the spark plug wires, as tagged during removal.
14. Attach the PCM electrical connectors.
15. Connect the power steering lines to the pump.
16. Install the serpentine drive belt and tensioner.
17. Install the coolant recovery tank.
18. Install the upper intake manifold, using a new gasket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
19. Fasten the nuts at the upper intake manifold support bracket. Tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
20. Connect the power brake vacuum hose.
21. Install the wiring loom bracket for the rear spark plug wires.
22. Connect the vacuum lines to the upper intake manifold tee.
23. Attach the electrical connectors to the canister purge solenoid and MAP sensor.
24. Install the EGR valve, secure with the retaining bolts, then attach the connector.
25. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum line to the throttle body.
26. Install the heater hose and bracket to the lower intake manifold.
27. Install the fuel line bracket and bolt. Uncap and connect the fuel pipes to the fuel rail.
28. Install the fuel injector sight shield.
29. Connect the control cables to the throttle body.
30. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the cooling system and refill and bleed the power steering system. Connect the negative battery cable.

Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine NOTE: The coolant pump is bolted to the brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and cooling fan.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Position the lock carrier into the service position as follows:
   1. Remove or disconnect:
      • Front bumper.
      • Any wiring or connector that would inhibit locking the carrier.
      • 3 quick-release screws on the front noise insulation panel.
      • Air guide between the lock carrier and the air filter.
      • Retaining clamps for the wiring harness at the left side of the radiator frame.
      • No. 2 bolts and install Support tool 3369 or equivalent.
      • Remaining bolts and pull the lock carrier out to the stop.
   2. To secure the lock carrier, install the appropriate M6 bolts into the rear of the lock carrier and fender.
3. Remove or disconnect
   • Negative battery cable.
   • Accessory drive belt, then the engine driven cooling fan.
   • Coolant.
   • Clamps for the coolant hoses at the water pump.
   • Intake air duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
   • Generator mounting bolts and slide it forward.
   • Wiring from the generator once it is removed.
4. Unbolt the following supports and brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan:
   1. Intake manifold support
   2. Support for the engine torque bracket
   3. Brace to the cylinder block (remove completely)
5. Remove or disconnect:
   • Brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan, positioning the brackets to the left side using a piece of wire
   • Coolant hoses from the pump and thermostat housing
   • Coolant pump housing from the timing belt cover
   • Coolant pump mounting bolts, then the pump
   • Impeller housing from the pump housing
   To install: Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump, housing and related components — 1.8L engine
   Fig. 2: Assembly bracket with water pump mounting bolt tightening sequence — 1.8L engine
   
   
6. Using a new gasket, mount the new coolant pump to the pump housing. Mounting bolts: 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
7. Using a new gasket and O-ring, install the coolant pump. Mounting bolts in alphabetical sequence: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
8. Tighten the coolant pump housing to the timing belt cover to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
9. Install or connect:
   • Coolant hoses to the pump and thermostat housing.
   • Brackets that were removed. Mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   • Wires to the generator, then install the generator.
   • Air intake duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
10. The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal.
11. Fill the engine with coolant
12. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function
13. After installing the lock carrier, check the wiring for proper routing near the cooling fan

Speed Sensors REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front Fig. 1: The speed sensor sits directly over the exciter ring in the front knuckle
Fig. 2: Detach the speed sensor connector in the engine compartment
Fig. 3: Remove the speed sensor harness from the routing clips
Fig. 4: A special E6 Torx® socket is required to remove the speed sensor retaining bolt

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. From inside engine compartment, detach sensor assembly 2-pin connector from the wiring harness.
3. Remove the steel routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the tube bundle on the left sensor or remove the plastic routing clip attaching the sensor wire to the frame on the right sensor.
4. Remove the rubber coated spring steel clip holding the sensor wire to the frame.
5. Remove the sensor wire from the steel routing clip on the frame and from the dust shield.
6. Remove the sensor attaching bolt from the front spindle and slide the sensor out of the mounting hole. To install:
   
7. Install the sensor into the mounting hole in the front spindle and attach with the mounting bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
8. Insert the sensor routing grommets into the dust shield and steel bracket on the frame. Route the wire into the engine compartment.
9. Install the rubber coated steel clip that holds the sensor wire to the frame into the hole in the frame.
10. Install the steel clip that holds sensor wire to tube bundle on left side or plastic clip that holds sensor to frame on right side.
11. Reconnect the 2-pin connector to wire harness. Connect the negative battery cable.

Rear Fig. 5: Detach the speed sensor connector in the luggage compartment
Fig. 6: Grasp the harness and . . .
Fig. 7: . . . remove it from the routing brackets
Fig. 8: The rear speed sensor is mounted on the back of the hub assembly
Fig. 9: Remove the sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the hub

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. From inside luggage compartment, detach 2-pin sensor connector from wiring harness and push sensor wire through hole in floor.
3. From below vehicle, remove sensor wire from routing bracket located on top of rear axle carrier housing and remove steel clip holding sensor wire and brake tube against axle housing.
4. Remove screw from clip holding sensor wire and brake tube to bracket on axle.
5. Remove sensor to rear adapter retaining bolt and remove sensor. To install:
   
6. Insert sensor adapter and install retaining bolt. Tighten to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
7. Attach the clip holding the sensor and brake tube to the bracket on the axle housing and secure with the retaining screw. Tighten the screw to 40–60 inch lbs. (4.5–6.8 Nm).
8. Install steel clip around axle tube that holds sensor wire and brake tube against axle tube and push spool-shaped grommet into clip located on top of axle carrier housing.
9. Push sensor wire connector up through hole in floor and seat large round grommet into hole.
10. Reconnect sensor 2-pin connector to wiring harness inside luggage compartment.

Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   

1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
   

1. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
   Using care not to damage the front stabilizer bar link ball stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
   With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear sub-frame retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
   

1. Remove front stabilizer bar bracket bolts, stabilizer bar brackets, stabilizer bar bracket insulators and front stabilizer bar (5482) as required.
   

Installation

1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar bracket insulator installation position.
   

1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
   

1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
   

1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on stabilizer bar bracket insulators and install new bolts. Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
   

1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Tighten to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) to front shock absorber. Use care not to damage link ball joint boot seal.
   

1. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
   Install a new front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut. Tighten to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
   
   

I just received the manual via PDF. Doesn't look like I can attach a file to this, so contact me with your email address. It is for the regular carrier, but they go together the same.

Hi,
Please follow the complete steps as provided bellow.
1. Before you remove anything off the truck, measure the pinion on the front and rear axle differential. Make sure to record this measurement as we will want to put each axle back to this angle after the suspension lift kit is installed. This is especially important for the front axle. Putting the front axle back to the same measurement will keep the stock camber and caster.
2. Jack up the truck and place a jack stand under the frame on each side of the truck. Jack the truck up enough so that the front tires are just barely off the ground. Take a motorcycle strap and wrap the strap around the differential and to the frame. This will help keep the axle in the general proximity while the factory suspension is removed and the 4 link is installed.
3. Remove shock absorbers, coil springs, swing arms, rear swing arm pivot, and sway bar.
4. Use a ¼”drill and drill out the centre of the rivets that hold the coil brackets to the frame. A couple of the rivets you may not be able to drill. Next, use a cut-off wheel, grinder, or rivet buster to remove the heads of the bolts. You can use a torch, but it will be more difficult to punch out the rivets. Chances are you will have to use a grinder and grind the **** off the rivets flush with the stamped part.
5. Locate upper bag mount and drill out the four 3/8” rivet holes in side of the frame to ½” Bolt the brackets to the side of frame using the four ½” grade 8 bolts. Make sure to check the back side of the frame for brake lines, fuel lines and on the Excursion, heater lines.
6. Locate rear trailing arm bracket and fasten to the frame using the ½”bolts provided. You will first have to remove the factory transmission cross member. It will be required to drill the (4) holes in the bottom of the frame. Be careful not to drill into any fuel lines. After you fasten the two brackets to the frame, install the new cross member. Fasten into place using the 5/8” bolts. Fasten the transmission into place using the factory nuts.
7. Locate the lower air bag mount; position this part on top of the axle. On the passenger side you will need to drill a ½” hole in the flat part of the axle. There is no drilling on the drivers’ side. Fasten into place using the 14mm metric bolt. If you use the factory bolt, it will need to be shortened about ½”. Locate the cross member that connects the two bag mounts in place. Fasten using the ½” x 1 ½” bolts.
Step 8. Locate the upper and lower trailing arms. Install the arms so that the upper arms are the same length and the lower arms are the same length. Try and install so the pinion angle is close to original.
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