Question about Frigidaire FES367 Electric Kitchen Range
When I turn on the oven it seems to start to heat up but then goes off. The clock and the light still work. Nothing else. Bake, Boil, clean...nothing. How can I fix it?
SOURCE: frigidaire oven will not heat up
here is a list of error codes that may or may not be displayed by the oven.
Frigidaire Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F1 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F2 Oven temperature too hot Check and replace oven temperature sensor (RTD). F3 Open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F6 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock). F8 Oven door lock failure Check lock relay and door switches.
Posted on Jan 29, 2008
SOURCE: frigidaire oven door locked
SOME RANGES ARE DESIGNED TO LOCK IF THE CONTROL SENSES A TEMPERATURE EXTREME. IF THERE IS A FAILURE OF THE SENSOR THAT MAKES THE CONTROL THINK THE TEMP IS UP, IT WILL LOCK THE DOOR TO PREVENT INJURY. REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND FIND THE OVEN SENSOR LEADS COMING OUT THE BACK OF THE OVEN. DISCONNECT THE SENSOR AND CHECK THE RESISTANCE. AT ROOM TEMP IT SHOULD BE SOMEWHERE AROUND 1084 OHMS. IF IT IS NOT CLOSE,
THE SENSOR IS BAD. PLUG IN A NEW SENSOR AT THAT CONNECTOR AND THE DOOR SHOULD UNLOCK. THEN GET INSIDE THE OVEN, REMOVE THE OLD SENSOR, AND REPLACE IT WITH THE ONE PLUGGED IN.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Hi .The oven door will not unlock until it cools down despite the cycle being finished.If it has not opened in a maximum of 1 or 2 hrs then oven sensor failed during self clean cycle and will have to be replaced.Try restarting self clean to unlock door .If not you will have to do the old coat hanger trick or manually move the lock mech. from rear,sensor cost $30-40.Hop this helps .Please rate my response :)
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
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Hi Ron - From what you have described if neither the burners nor oven turns on make sure the electrical connecting is 240V. The oven light and clock portions only required 115V. The clock and oven light working may indicate an electrical circuit breaker supplying the range is tripped or a fuse is blown. Confirm household circuit is correct and the range cord is properly wired to the terminal block.
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