Question about Panasonic Toughbook CF-27 Notebook

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No power the password i dont care about anymore, the laptop wont even turn on anymore. i have the ac cable plugged in but when i push the button it wont turn on

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  • m3nameis Sep 14, 2008

    the ac is plugged into the notebook

  • m3nameis Sep 14, 2008

    internal power supply???

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Take out the battery first then install a new hard drive like i did this will work

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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Is the AC plugged directly into the notebook or is there an external power supply? If it is the latter, any multimeter would tell you if the external supply is still doing something. 
If you have a meter (or a friend with one), don't get confused if the output if much higher than is stamped into the case since these are often only crudely or totally un-regulated with the bulk of the work being done inside the case where circuitry regulates power for the board with the computer on and the batteries under all conditions. 

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison Sep 15, 2008

    internal power supply???


    'Fraid so; and it depends on the degree of integration whether you can replace it yourself.
    Normally, in the case of an integrated supply with few exceptions, the power supply will be physically separate from the logic circuitry for several reasons:


    - The switched mode power supply (SMPS) is 'noisy' from an electrical standpoint. They are fed directly from the AC line without any transformer between the wall and the first components, diodes. These rectify the incoming AC and typically produce ~ 170 volts of lumpy DC that is filtered with a couple of capacitors and then fed to a circuit that (kind of illogically) chops the DC into AC but at higher frequency; anywhere between 50,000 cycles (Hertz) and 200, 000 Hz.
    This higher frequency is coupled via a ferrite (not iron as for low frequncy) core to several windings that provide different levels of voltage and those are fed to . . . diodes again :-)
    That is filtered via capacitor and inductive filters that remove the high frequency ripple from the DC for use to various parts of the circuitry.


    The reason for this somewhat convoluted path is that for equivalent power capability, many of the components (in particular, the main power transformer) do not need the bulk required for processing 50-60 cycle AC into low DC voltages used in digital and analog devices.       


    The fact that they use these high frequencies causes them to be sources of all kinds of 'static' way up into the megahertz range that could easily affect the low voltage circuits they service.


    - Secondly, because they deal with hundreds of volts, it wouldn't be good design practice to have them share a circuit board with low voltage components.    


    If you are adventurous, you will have to carefully split the top and bottom halves of your case; these often have very few screws, some hidden under the access covers for memory on the bottom and may have some screws associated with various connectors for external devices.
    Once you are sure you have located and removed (these are tiny screws!) them all, the case-halfs are nearly always snapped together so even with no screws holding them. they will not often simply come apart.
    You will need a pry tool such as a putty knife (or very strong fingernails as I) to start the unsnapping; don't use something too narrow as you will damage the cheap plastic of most cases.


    Once you have the case open, touch any piece of sheet metal shield to eliminate any static voltage difference between you and the guts of the machine since many semiconductors die with fairly low static voltage discharges.



    After open, it shouldn't be tough to recognize the PS board since it will be the only one that is fitted to receive the AC cord and will have parts on it much larger physically than the logic (mother) board.
    This board may have a fuse on it but it may be soldered in place rather than in a holder.
    The fuses of today are, in most cases, not the glass or ceramic types in clips. They are often 'microfuses' that are socketed or soldered and are ~ 3/8" tall and ~ 1/4" in diameter and mostly black epoxy cased.


    The board (well most all of them) may have more than one part number on them; quite common is a bare board number, another for the assembled board and this could well be on a sticker since it seems no one gets it right the first time and a board may be altered several times during production and get revision numbers.


    Or, you could forget all of the above and either junk it or give it to a tech to repair.


    Good luck -          




        

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