Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You replaced the heating element, but did you check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Hi Limit Thermostat? These two components work in conjunction to regulate the temperature of the heating circuits. In most dryer related heat problems, the TCO will fail before the heating element.
The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element leads. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is also located on the outside of the heater box, but is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Both these components should read 0 ohms with a multimeter if good. If either component is found to be defective, you must replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace. Thats why these two parts are usually sold as a set. The part number is 279816 and can be purchased at any of the following websites:
You can view a diagram of these components using the helpful exploded view diagrams on the any of the first three websites I have listed. The last website only shows part illustrations. The TCO and High Limit Thermostat will be listed as items 6 and 15 respectively under the "Bulkhead' parts section. NOTE: Item 6 comes with item 15 when ordering.
Another thing to consider is the input voltage at the wall receptacle. Did you verify the voltage was correct? You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
Now if you determine the TCO is defective, it usually blows for a reason. It usually fails due to an overheat condition. This is commonly caused by clogged or poorly installed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't inspected or cleaned the dryer interior, or external ducting recently, now would be a good time to do so before you replace any parts. If left in a poorly ventilated condition, a dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Which may potentially ruin any new parts you replace.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
the belt is off or broken, changing the belt yourself can be tricky, you must remove the front bulkhead and door/panel assy, then you have to route the belt correctly from th motor to the belt tensioner, you may want to call a tech.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
Disconnect the vent in the rear and try again.... If it now works you have a blocked exhaust vent....If not, you might have a bad sensor..
Posted on Sep 02, 2010
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