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Whirlpool Elec. dryer.. Model No.Leq9858lgo..Serial No. MM4802488..Problem...It over heats. We set it on air fluff and it keeps over heating. We have replaced, motor,temperature switch, to no avail...Advise on any service flashs... My e-mail....

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: sde5401ayw keeps tripping breaker

ck the element if the breaker poping as soon as you use heat dead short eather element are wire going to it

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: The dryer is heating on air fluff.

Good Afternoon,
Is this dryer Electric or Gas?

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: replaced element and dryer still won't heat

You replaced the heating element, but did you check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Hi Limit Thermostat? These two components work in conjunction to regulate the temperature of the heating circuits. In most dryer related heat problems, the TCO will fail before the heating element.

The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element leads. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is also located on the outside of the heater box, but is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Both these components should read 0 ohms with a multimeter if good. If either component is found to be defective, you must replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace. Thats why these two parts are usually sold as a set. The part number is 279816 and can be purchased at any of the following websites:

You can view a diagram of these components using the helpful exploded view diagrams on the any of the first three websites I have listed. The last website only shows part illustrations. The TCO and High Limit Thermostat will be listed as items 6 and 15 respectively under the "Bulkhead' parts section. NOTE: Item 6 comes with item 15 when ordering.

Another thing to consider is the input voltage at the wall receptacle. Did you verify the voltage was correct? You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

Now if you determine the TCO is defective, it usually blows for a reason. It usually fails due to an overheat condition. This is commonly caused by clogged or poorly installed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't inspected or cleaned the dryer interior, or external ducting recently, now would be a good time to do so before you replace any parts. If left in a poorly ventilated condition, a dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Which may potentially ruin any new parts you replace.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • 222 Answers


the belt is off or broken, changing the belt yourself can be tricky, you must remove the front bulkhead and door/panel assy, then you have to route the belt correctly from th motor to the belt tensioner, you may want to call a tech.

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool AWZ3518 vented dryer. The dryer will

Disconnect the vent in the rear and try again.... If it now works you have a blocked exhaust vent....If not, you might have a bad sensor..

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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If the element was replaced, and now verified that it is not presently shorted to ground, your next diagnostic would be to to test the timer connections per the schematic lookiong for a fused contact that energizes the heater, while set to air fluff setting.

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Whirlpool dryer bad heating element AGAIN

Hi Warren Fink
Try this solution to your problem

A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me

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The dryer appears to be overheating. The top of the dryer housing get hot while drying a load of cloths. More than normal. Checked dryer vent, lint catch (clean) and exhaust hose and all appears clear.

Excess lint can also cause a dryer to get too hot. Again, you should check the filter and the vent for lint. Clean them if needed. Another thing that could cause a dryer to get too hot is a bad blower. This would need to be replaced if damaged. You should also, never use white plastic vent. This can cause your dryer to overheat and also be a fire hazard.
If you are not already a repairman, there will be some problems that arise that you cannot fix. The idea is to know what to look for and to fix whatever problems you can. This way, you don't purchase a new one or call a repairman unless it's necessary. When making repairs, always unplug your clothes dryer for safety. If parts are needed, make sure you have your manufacturer and serial number with you before going shopping. This will help ensure that you buy the right parts and save you another trip to the store. Most of us are intimidated at the thought of dryer repair. Just keep in mind that a lot of common dryer problems are simple (excess lint) and can be fixed by anyoneIf the dryer heats when the Fabric Care/Temperature switch is set to AIR FLUFF (No Heat), check the following:
1. Perform the Fabric Care/Temperature Switch Test
2. Set the following configuration:
Door- must be closed
Fabric Care/Temperature switch- AIR FLUFF
3. Press the PUSH TO START switch
a. Check voltage on Heater Relay. If P3-1 to P3-2 is 0VDC, replace the Heater Relay
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I'd like you to try something easy. Set the dryer to Air Fluff and see if the dryer still puts
out Heat let it run for about 2 full minutes If you dryer is still putting out Heat get back to me

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Good Afternoon,
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