Question about Televison & Video
Hi do you have sound but no picture, if so, this could be the tcon board this board sit at the top of the tv with a cable going to the mainboard, thanks
Posted on Jun 22, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: PICTURE WENT BLANK TV TURNED OFF
Replace the thermal fuse part# 1-910-006-44 You can verify this by jumping the connector where the fuse connects and the lamp will come on.
Posted on Aug 21, 2007
I just had the same problem with mine (Toshiba 42HP85) The TV was fine and shutoff red light blinked twice, and you can turn it on agin right away then it shuts off again. The problem was there are 2 cooling fans you can here at the top rear of the unit, when they get dusty the bearings wear out and shut off. See if you can here 1 or both fans working. If only one is on, you can get a replacement from coolguys.com for 7.95 ea. model # is on the back of the fan. Replace both while you have the cover off, if that's the problem. The unit shutting off is the computer sensing there is a problem the red light is an error warning. Good Luck!
Posted on Aug 25, 2007
This problem is with fair certainty the
Modern power supplies are designed to shut down if the current drawn exceeds the design level which indicates that something the supply services or the supply itself has died.
If you are adventurous, you might pull the plug on the set, allow the set to sit overnight, gain access to the innards, and with good light, inspect any boards inside. If you see one that has few ICs but many more larger discrete parts, this will be the power supply.
You are looking for components called electrolytic capacitors that are almost always cylindrical and mostly installed upright at 90 degrees to the board with leads passing through to the solder side.
This same type of component in smaller dimensions is still used in a horizontal package with leads bent down and passing though holes to the solder side.
The latter are becoming more rare since they don't lend themselves well to robot assembly.
Many (not all) will show signs of pregnancy when they fail, bulging unnaturally when compared with others. Now and then, there may be traces of a crystalline deposit around the end where the seal failed from internal pressure.
These will have values listed on them in uFd & VDC and sometimes, a plus/minus number lying about the precision.
Some also have a date code (rarer) that will look like four digits:
2403 = 24th week of 2003
Most electronics suppliers have a stock of the various values but if they have a date code at all, try to get only those made before 2002 or after 2006.
The larger caps will probably be OK since the failure is likely related to functions other than brute-force filtering. A pretty good 'rule of thumb' is to replace any caps you see bulging that are 100 uFd or less.
If you choose to replace these yourself, you will need a quality soldering iron with a small, preferably iron-plated tip, rosin core solder and a sponge which when wetted is used to frequently wipe oxidized solder from the tip this should be kept bright and clean and fresh tinning will keep it that way.
You should also buy some solder 'wick' with the iron; this is used to place on the solder you wish to remove and then heated with the iron. Properly used. the wick will absorb nearly all of the solder from the lands from which you wish to remove a component.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
You have to configure yout laptop to output through the s-video (which does not carry sound, so you need to either use the laptop speakers for sound, or the line output (headphone jack) to the TV).
I don't know if all toshibas are the same, but with mine, if I hold Fn (near the windows key) and press F5, it will change the output, do it a few times until you see a picture on the TV, some settings make this your extended desktop, meaning you can drag a window from one screen to another.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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