My worcester 30cdi boiler lost pressure on system whilst i was away, on return i had no hot water. I re pressurised the sytem but the boiler will only go through the air purge sequence and does not fire up
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Overheat thermostat has tripped. If a modern Worcester need to press reset on control panel.
If older style Worcester - Pull front cover off the boiler (just above
control panel flap pull the cover from both sides forward to unclip and
then lift upwards to remove cover) and you will see a little brown reset
button - press this back down.
However the over heat thermostat trips for a reason - was the system
running on low pressure? It could be the pump is sticking a bit (dirt in
the system) which can be sorted easily by adding an additive (DIY packs
available at Home-base) . Or it could be the pump has completely gone.
If this is the case it will trip again as soon as the boiler clicks back
There should be a control called an aquastat that regulates the temperature of the boiler. The thermostat will turn on the circulator to start the flow of water through the radiators. If the water coming back from the radiators is very cold, a control will shut off the circulator until the boiler can come up to a predetermined temperature then start the flow of water again. If you have a tankless coil for domestic hot water, you now have a triple aquastat that maintains the temperature for domestic as well as the boiler temp. So yes the boiler thermostat (aquastat) does control the heat of the radiators and domestic hot water. No the pump is regulated by your house thermostat. You should take an amp draw on the boiler and componants to find out what is drawing more electricity than it should and popping your fuse.
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
its the vavle 3 one in from the left its a 15mm pipe and there will be a iso vavle what you can turn with a flat point screwdriver and that will turn off the main water to the boiler these are the manual http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/homeowner/literature/discontinued-boiler-literature/discontinued-gas-boiler-literature/240-bf-discontinued-december-1997-literature
more information required but if the boiler supplies the domestic hot water cylinder then the stat on the cylinder may be bringing on the boiler also the boiler stat may be up too high try turning it down.
The fact that you're getting a little burst of domestic hot water suggests that the boiler is capable of circulating hot primary loop water through the heat exchanger, but doesn't necessarily do so when it needs to.
What seems to be lacking is a recognition that domestic hot water is now being drawn off, and that the boiler needs to fire up and divert the primary flow through the heat exchanger.
A good place to start might be the flow switch (usually in the bottom of the boiler, where the cold water supply comes in) or the electrical connections to it.
Greenstar 15Ri Technical data table
Output to central heating and domestic hot water
5 - 15kW (17,060 - 51,180Btu/hr)
Maximum horizontal flue (100mm ø)
4,600mm (inc. terminal)
Maximum vertical flue (100mm ø)
6,400mm (inc. terminal)
Maximum horizontal flue (125mm ø)
13,000mm (inc terminal)
Maximum vertical flue (125mm ø)
15,000mm (inc. terminal)
Heating flow and return connections
Maximum flow temperature
Primary water content
Noise output level
Hope this is what you wanted..
35 cdi worcester combi about 3 years old,heating not working,hot water works fine.It's been serviced not long ago.Room stat turned up and trv's ,but boiler want fire up,there's power to the boiler and the room stat the built in time clock is switched to on, but still nothing. do you think it could be the diverter valve, when i got there it was flashing SE which mean's it needs a service,cleaned the heat exchanger and burner with the proper worceter brush etc then re set boiler with technical, they also said it could be the built in clock and told me to disconect it, and just use the heating stat to control it.It still want fire.