Question about Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore freezer upright

I checked the overload, it reads zero ohns from wire connection to the female pin end (removed the overload and measured it at my bench). The motor starter relay below the overload reads zero ohms from the prong (white wire connection)to the terminal labeled "s", the "m" side is open, unless I turn the relay upside down, then I get continuity on the M side. It doesn't "pull in" when powered up. Is this a problem? Also, at the compressor, all 3 prongs read between 4-12 ohms from pin to pin and open from all pins to ground

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 828 Answers

The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Managemylife com sears


You have a Kenmore upright, which you set on ZERO? WHY?
Every time you open the door all of the cold air falls out and it has to start over in the cool down cycle, the fan stops to NOT push all of the COLD out while the door is open - you should consult a professional. Not for the freezer, for your ability to understand.

Aug 18, 2014 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

2 Answers

I have a 2007 model 253.264 upright Kenmore self-defrosting freezer. The control panel on the front door stopped working. No temperature reading and no way to adjust controls. The freezer is still


I have one out in the yard that is doing the very same thing. Works good but the door display is out. I looked underneath and all of the wires seem to be connected. The main control board is on the bottom as well. The battery is also new. You must have a broken wire between that control and the main board below. I imagine it has something to do the the connector that goes through the door.

Sep 21, 2012 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

I have model TFU12MOAW3 upright freezer and it does not run. I tested the voltage from the freezer control to the compressor relay and I have 120 volts. Could tell me how I can test this relay (P/N...


Hello,
The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.

to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.

both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test

if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead

Gene

Aug 12, 2011 | Frigidaire 20.3 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Upright...

1 Answer

I had a flood in the basement where I keep my Frigidaire freezer, model FFU17FC5W3, which left 4 inches of water on the ground. The following day I drained the basement and dried it up and the freezer was...


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Likely just the start device, the compressor is a sealed unit so the water would not have affected it.

Here's what I'd suggest you try...

If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ve provided the following info to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician as I would suggest.

I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...

** Most of the manufacturers of fridges have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to.**


If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.

**First, Unplug the fridge**

Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor.

On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.

2234770.jpg
Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...

ffd3e9e.jpg
With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.

You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.

On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good !

If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.

i.e.

775ec2d.jpg

The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it.


NOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relied on for long term reliability or safety, but rather thefactory replacemnet, double check with your model number.

Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the reply and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa.

Thank you and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Mar 18, 2011 | Frigidaire 17 cu. ft. / 481 liter Upright...

2 Answers

My DCF550W just stopped working. Yes - it is plugged in, and the breaker is not tripped! There is no response to dialing the temperatiure control to any position. It sure sounds like the overload protector...


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

I suspect by your description the freezer either has a faulty overload protector as you mentioned (no there is no reset) or the compressor itself is seized.

If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ve provided the following info to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician as I would suggest.

I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...

** Most of the manufacturers of fridges/freezers have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to.**

If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.

**First, Unplug the freezer**

Remove the panel at the back or side down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor.

On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.

2234770.jpg

Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...

ffd3e9e.jpg
With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.

You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.

On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good !

If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.

i.e.

775ec2d.jpg

The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it.


NOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relied on for long term reliability or safety, but rather the factory replacemnet, double check with your model number.

Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the reply and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa.

Thank you and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Mar 02, 2011 | Danby 5.5 cu. ft. / 156 liter Chest...

1 Answer

What rewiring is needed to replace the overload relay with a universal kit, on an upright freezer? Kelvinator model VA16 W. There are two relays that connect to the compressor that need to be replaced....


The two pieces are Relay and Overload.

If you are using a supco relay/overload combination that has three wires with terminals and two wires with stripped ends the wiring is as such.

Red-Run Terminal, White-Start Terminal, Black-Common Terminal (Overload was wired to this)

Stripped wires are connected to line cord along with condenser fan wires.

Nov 19, 2010 | Frigidaire Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore 253.26442100 light is on but will not run, replaced the freezer control timer, what else?


Good day,
99% of will not run conditions are due either to the timer or the thermostat.
You've done one. Remove the tstat and jump the 2 wires going to it, to see if it starts. You'll have to make a small jumper wire from some #16 or #18 gauge wire bared on the ends.

May 13, 2010 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Kenmore upright freezer


No it is not the timer. You may have an open overload protector at the compressor. Check across the overload for a reading with an ohm meter. If it reads zero it is good, if not replace it.

Sep 13, 2008 | Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer 24092

1 Answer

Freezer won't run


There is no reset switch. There is a thermal overload protector mounted on the compressor. Does the compressor hum and then give a click sound. If so your compressor has failed. If the compressor is cold (Room Temperature) and it does not try to run your thermostat may be bad. If so remove the temperature control and jumper the two main wires that connect to the control. Unit should be unplugged to do this operation. Insulated the wires so they do not contact any metal surface. Plug the freezer back in. If it runs and cools replace the thermostat.

Jul 01, 2008 | Freezers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Freezers Logo

Related Topics:

98 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Freezers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

AJMAL KHAN

Level 2 Expert

382 Answers

Victor Nwachukwu
Victor Nwachukwu

Level 2 Expert

152 Answers

Are you a Freezer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...