Question about GE Dryers

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The dryer will heat intermitently. Checked thermostats, heating element, and fan; problem remains. the intermittency has increased over time and at this point the heater does not come on, and the fan motor cycles weakly in both directions; rocking in affect, nerver completing a revolution.

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Suspect root of problem is the motor capacitor bearing in mind that motor also drives fan. capacitor usually mounted on the motor. find the value (printed on the capacitor and you shoulod be able to source from a good spares stockist

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Continues to blow the high temp stat. I clean the blower and replaced the venting. I also replaced the heating coil the dryer heats up for a load and then it stopss heating. I test the high temp stat


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Feb 17, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Just purchased this heater, the fan comes on but the heat is next to nothing. I checked the voltage at the elements and is is 235v the amperage on L1 and L2 is 20.8a. If I pull the fan wire off the relay,...


First off, 20.8 amps is approximately the amperage draw on a single element furnace (nominally 5 kw.) So if you have 3 or 4 elements, (15 or 20 kw capacity) the problem is the remaining elements are not being enrgized. Look to see if there is a W1 and W2 and even possibly a W3 terminal on the terminal strip. If so, and its not a heat pump, there should be thermostat wires on all three, indicating three stages of heat. To energize those properly, the thermostat should be a multi-stage heating thermostat providing W1 and W2 at the minimum. If you do not have a multi stage thermostat, and there are no wires on W2 and W3, jumper W1, W2 and W3 together and the furnace will come on at full capacity with the single stage thermostat.

If you DO in fact have wires on the additional W terminals, you more than likely have a heat sequencer that is not energizing the 2nd and possibly the third stage of heat. A three element furnace is typically called a 15kw furnace and the three elements should draw approximately 19 to 20 amps each. So when each stage draws in, the clamp on amprobe on the main incoming wires will correspondingly increase with each stage.

Also, some 15 and 20 kw furnaces require two circuits to supply the elements, and I have been on calls before where the second breaker was not turned on, and in one case, the second circuit wasn't even wired in from the electrical panel box.

DO NOT pull the wire off the fan while the heaters are energized as they will rapidly cycle on an overtemp device. Some actually have a "one time" thermal link that once melted render the respective element inoperable until that thermal link is replaced. They will melt very easily. An energized element MUST have airflow across it !!!

Dec 13, 2014 | Ouellet 5000-Watt Utility/Garage Space...

1 Answer

My dryer does not blow hot and will not shut off and no digital reading will display.


Hello Bryan;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

So, here are the probable causes:

1.) The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. If the dryer won't stop, the blower wheel may be plugged up or not be spinning properly, which reduces the air flow. Check to see if the blower wheel is securely fastened to the drive motor shaft. Check the blower hot air discharge manifold for blockage.

2a.) If the dryer won't stop, the gas valve solenoid coils might be defective. Over time these coils will fail, causing the burner to run intermittently. If the dryer is not heating properly it may not stop. Replace the coils as a set.

2.b) The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the dryer won't stop, it may be because the heating element isn't working - which greatly increases the drying time. Check the heating element for continuity.

3.) Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the dryer won't stop, check to be sure air can flow freely, clean the filter as needed.

4.) Although not as common, if the dryer won't stop it may be because the moisture sensor is either defective or shorted

5.) If the dryer won't stop, check the high limit thermostat. If defective, the high limit thermostat can turn off the heat prematurely, lengthening the time it takes to dry a full load. This is not common.

6.) The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer won't stop, it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat turning off the heat too early. This is not common.

7.) The thermistor senses the temperature of the air in the dryer and cycles the heat on and off. If the dryer won't stop, the thermistor may be defective. This is not common.

Nov 16, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

My whirlpool dryer comes on and runs good but it wont get hot can you tell me whats the problem


Hello there and welcome to fixya there are several things that could make this dryer not heat up
Here are the most common things

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn\'t heat, but the drum
turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer
from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is
blown, it will have to be replaced.




Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.

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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric
solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner
assembly. If the dryer doesn\'t heat one or more of the solenoids may be
defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame
doesn\'t light, replace these coils as a set.


Dryer Igniter


If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the igniter might
be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer
igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can
burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element should be
checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must
be replaced if defective.


Heating Element Assembly

the heating element assembly on an electric
dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element
assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly
cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.

Flame Sensor



Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the
heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the flame sensor
might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not
as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


High Limit Thermostat


Although not common, if the dryer doesn\'t
heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for
continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn\'t heat.


Cycling Thermostat




The cycling thermostat regulates the
temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn\'t heat it may be
caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at
fault when the dryer doesn\'t heat. Check all of the other components in
this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The
main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is
defective.


Timer
The timer is normally not at fault if the
dryer doesn\'t heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they
end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this
troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Oct 14, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Zanussi TC7102W drying problems


not likely the timer but it does control the heat circuit. suspect the fan-air flow is being blocked and the elements are cycling on a safety thermostat instead of the operating thermostat. check for blocked or restricted vent and plenty of air coming out the vent when running. check for a flapper on the vent not opening or only open part way.

Mar 01, 2012 | Zanussi Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore dryer is blowing only cold air. What is wroge? We already checked the heating element and timer...???? This dryer is only 4 years old.


The heating circuit is composed not only by the heating element and the timer but also with a high-limit thermostat, a thermal cut-off, and a cycling thermostat. The high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off are both mounted on the heater housing to monitor and regulate the heater temperature while the cycling thermostat is mounted on the blower housing to monitor and regulate the temperature of the exhaust air.

All of these components are wired in series and a failure in any of them results in the dryer not heating. The proper troubleshooting is by checking the continuity of each of these components with a volt-ohmmeter and replacing the ones found without continuity (open).

A continuity check can also be done by bypassing each of the three components, never the heating element, and then starting the dryer. The dryer should heat, otherwise the problem is somewhere in the timer, the heating element, or the centrifugal switch within the motor. When the dryer heats up, unplug it then un-bypass one of the bypassed components and start the dryer. If the dryer stops heating then you have found the failed component; replace it. If the dryer does not stop heating, do the same to the remaining components until you find the failed one. Just make sure the dryer is unplugged before touching the components.

Replace both the high-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off if any of them has failed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer if you need further or more specific advice.

Jun 12, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer doesnt work but i hear the timer working


Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal

Jan 18, 2009 | Kenmore 60172 Electric Commercial Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not heating, Interimittent Problem -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Having an intermittent problem. The dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no...


Have you tried to bypass the hi limit switch or the thermal switch. It will work. If it works for a few times, then you will know the switch is bad. I did this on a friend's one time and it solved it. Only cost about 15 bucks. Godd luck and let me know how it turns out.

Jan 13, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Poorly heating clothes dryer


Best way to test the elements and stats is to disconnect each one in turn, and with your meter set on the ohms range ,test each one in turn for continuity, you should get F.S.D.(full scale deflection) on each component.
Another way to test the element, is to bypas the stats, and connect the 240v suplly directly to the element, it should get red hot, but do not leave it on for more than a few seconds..
If it had gone down to earth, then theoretically it should trip the circuit breaker.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

Dec 25, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

It runs, but no heat


i dont believe at this time its anything mentioned at top most people dont realize that dryers are split cuircuts
is this a 220 setup
and if its a 220
the cuircuit breaker for this is set by 110 each one for the heating element one 110 for the guages and motor
goto circuit breaker and flip the breakers this should return your dryer working ability
other thing is are the guages working properly
dryer doesnt have to run to test guages turn to the highest setting and let them run completly threw cycle if they stop on a particular setting for a long length of period then the guages are bad

May 29, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE5243D Top Load Stacked...

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