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Whirlpool dryer LER5636EZ3

Drum turns, forceful COLD air blows, no heat. I changed the Hi-Limit Thermostat, Thermostat Cut-out, & heating element. The receptal reads 240V. I checked the voltage while the dryer was plugged up and got 240v at the pigtail where it connects to the dryer also. The red & black wire checked 240v at the timer/switch. When I check the terminal at the heating element, I get 125V. I touch the red wire with the red lead ( from the meter) to the terminal and the black lead (from the meter) to the metal housing to get the read of 125v. Both red wire terminals together get no read. All red wires to every thermostat gets the read of 125v. Is it suppose to have 240v? Where should I look next. I have not checked the motor. I have just taken off the back of the dryer. Could there be something on the motor that is not working? I'm at my wits end. thanks for trying to help.

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Hi thanks for your question make sure you have 240 volts at dryyer dicconnect dryer from power source check for ohms at the element take one wire off and check at element there could be another thermostat that sometimes is missed because its on the heater housing at the top of housing check that the appliance doc

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • john gagnon
    john gagnon Sep 22, 2008

    you shouldbe getting 240 volts across red & black

  • john gagnon
    john gagnon Sep 27, 2008

    hi you said between both reds you got no reading then you don't have 240 volts you have 110 on each side red to white and red to white but not 240 check the breaker thanks the appliance doc

  • john gagnon
    john gagnon Sep 27, 2008

    hi again on the timer you should have terminals y & r if you can check the ohms reading on those terminals with the timer set at normal cycle if no ohms reafding replace timer

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Please take time to rate me
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If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
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3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
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If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out. 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

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If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

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If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

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Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

Based on the model number you provided, I'm assuming this dryer can be accessed by removing the back panel.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back if you have any further questions, or need assistance in finding replacement parts.

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1 Answer

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There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:

1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.

2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).

3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.

I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.

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