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Re: inadequate cooling on walk in freezer
YES GOOD ADVISE . ALWAYS START WITH THE BASICS. IS EVAPORATOR COIL CLEAN AND CLEAR? ALL EVAP FANS RUNNING? DRAIN PAN CLEAR? IS STAT CALLING FOR COOL? IS OUTDOOR COND COIL CLEAN? IS OUTRDOOR FAN RUNNING WITH NO PLAY IN BUSHING? DO RUN AND START CAPS TEST GOOD? DOES CONTACTOR LOOK GOOD? THEN TRY TO CATCH UNIT WHEN TEMP IS ABOVE DESIRED SETTING. FIRST TEST STAT. IS IT OPEN OR CLOSED? IF BOX IS HOT AND ITS OPEN THEN PROBLEM IS STAT. IF STAT IS CLOSED AND OUTDOOR FAN IS NOT RUNNING THEN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY OVERHEATING WHEN FAN QUITS. CHECK FOR VOLTS TO FAN GOT VOLTS? FAN IS BAD. NO VOLTS? TRACK BACK TO SOURCE OF POWER ( CONTACTOR) AN R22 BOX AT 52 PRESS IS NOT TO BAD ON START UP ON A HOT BOX BUT COULD BE HIGH ON 502 408 OR R12 STUFF TYPE OF REF IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK
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Ok, basic refrigeration here. The 'high side' contains the high pressure vapor leaving the compressor and going to the condensor to condense into a high pressure liquid. The 'low side' contains low pressure refrigerant vapor within the evaporator and the suction line back to the compressor. The same amount of vapor has to return to the compressor as left the compressor. So thinking about pressure solves the problem....High pressure equals small line...
Low pressure equals larger line. The low pressure vapor will fill a larger space than high pressure vapor so it has to travel in a larger line. The suction side is the bigger of the two and if the unit is functioning, it will be the one cooler to the touch.
Though this is basically correct in theory, it is not a totally perfect way to descsribe an answer to your question, but it was fun to try.
Check the seal first. Then check the freon. If it's R-12, you can go to the auto parts house. They have a bottle with a hose to add freon. You put it in on the "suction" low side with the unit running. you can tell when it has enough by feeling the low line be cold and teh high pressure line is warm to hot
Good day, The first step is to check to see if the fan motors in the evaporator cooling assembly are blowing. The second step requires the use of compound gauge set. You will need to determine what type of refrigerant the unit runs on and what the high and low pressure readings are when the unit is on and running.
no don't do that sounds like the drain tube going to the defrost pan is not in properly remove front grate and inspect to see if tube is off to one side if you completely seal the void that is required on operating frig's if has no air flow to cool the compressor will overheat and shorten the life or not cool properly
Hey there. First question I have is if you have a heat pump or straight ac. Straight ac is easy to diagnose. Your suction pressure will be high, your head pressure will be lower, not sure how clean your condenser coils are so its hard to say how high. Your amp draw on your compressor will be lower than normal. Also, when looking at the suction pressures, you have to keep in mind what temp the air hitting the evap coil is. If it is warm, that will make your suction pressure go up. Another way to check the vavles is to hold the suction line at the compressor when you shut it off. If the temp goes up the second you shut it off, this tells you the hot gas is leaking through your suction valves. You can also try to pump the system down, then shut it off and see how fast the pressure builds back up, this will give you and idea how fast it is leaking through. Let me know if you need any thing else, I'll be here. seth
The 3 beeps indicates that the freeze cycle is longer than 60 minutes. with the suction pressure at 20, it sounds like low on charge (freon). I believe this is an R 404-A unit. Other things to look for are: Stuck float switch (in the up position), Water valve leaking, hot gas valve leaking, txv not feeding properly, weak compressor. Look at high side pressure too. It should not go below 210 psi during the freeze cycle. Low pressure should be in the middle to upper 40's psi.
If your products are already in the frozen state the answer is yes, you can make an immediate transfer. Normally a couple of hours run to allow the temperatures to stabilize is sufficient. The cool down run time also insures the the unit is functioning properly. If you plug it in and transfer the products right away make frequent checks to insure proper operation.
Check the evaporator coil for frost buildup on the back. Check for frost on the suction line, the biggest line returning to the compressor. If frost is evident at these places you have a defrost system problem. These systems have a defrost timer that defrosts the coil at preset times. Check the timer for proper operation by marking the position of the dial and check back to see if it changes. If it does not change position the timer motor is most likely bad. If the dial is not rotating automatically you can manually turn the dial in the direction of the arrow and put it through a defrost cycle.
That system has a restriction. Most common at TXV valve or capillary tube. Will need to be replaced by Refrigeration company. In this video I replaced TXV valve and filter drier due to the same issue You have. Its Ice Machine, Low side was at 5 PSI, High at 250PSI : 404A; should be around 55-65 Low; 250 -275 High. Replaced drier and TXV, machine works proper.