Question about Samsung SyncMaster 551 15" CRT Monitor
Posted on Apr 10, 2008
The white lines on the darker backgrounds are more than likely retrace lines. Usually caused by a leaky capacitor in the horizontal sync circuitry. If the red comes and goes it's probably a dry joint in the red drive. If you're handy with a soldering iron try resoldering the solder joints on the CRT neck board. If that doesn't do the trick then perhaps the drive transistors are on the motherboard. Just look for 3 transistors usually in a row and somewhere very close would be adjustable pots with the letters R.G and B printed near them. Even a simple gentle tapping with a plastic end of a screwdriver around that area may make the red flash on and off. Just resolder around that area and you'll know it's fixed when the red stays on. Just make sure the power is unplugged when working on the set and stay well away from the EHT and power supply areas. They can give you a nasty shock even if it is unplugged. Actually with live chassis TVs it's always best to use an isolation tranformer. If any of this is over your head the say hello to the repairman :-) BMW
Posted on May 31, 2006
Sillygirl I thought I would pass along a little tip on crt testing I learned many years ago. You take a 470 Ohm resistor and ground on end with a cliplead and touch the other end to the collector of the drive transistor. If the crt is good it will glow that color of the drive xixtor so you can simply check all three guns in a easy fashion without draging out the old crt tester/rejuvenator. Now this is only to see if the tube is working on that gun and wont tell you how much gain the color has..
Posted on May 31, 2006
If still under warranty or if you have no electronic repair experience you should take the set back to the shop or to a repair person. Some of the solutions described below can be dangerous, TV's and CRT monitors are very hazardous to service. Even when plugged out, they can store very high, deadly voltages. How old is the picture tube? If there's lots of phosphor burn on it, chances are the red gun inside the picture tube is out. A sure-fire way requires an oscilloscope. Check the voltages on the three color guns at their corresponding pins on the CRT's neck board. You can see their levels change as you tweak their adjustment pots on the neck board. If the red voltage is present and at the same levels as green and blue, then the gun inside the tube is shot. If the red voltage is NOT there, then you can work backwards and find out where you're losing it. It could be a bad buffer amplifier (transistor or I.C.), bad solder joint, or even a broken wire in the cable harness. check for cracked solder joints where the RGB, Grd Sync connector is. check the pins on the molex power supply connector, could be that the pin for the red is pushed back and is not making contact. Try swapping the red and green inputs if you see red on your monitor and no green, then it is NOT the tube. If you see no red still but still get a green where red should be I would suspect a bad chassis.
Posted on May 31, 2006
SOURCE: Black Out
Hi Detrix, Check with www.lcdrepair.net if you want a repair. Something is wrong with your LCD controller and or GUI interface circuit or the circuit supplying power to it. If your technically endowed, you may want to open the monitor case and clean the dust and lint from around the circuits using a Small paint brush to sweep away any built up dust. These circuits take the Signal from the computer and controls the 2.5 million pixels on the LCD screen. Dsut can cause major problems with handling all that data. Give it a shot, what do you have to loose, its not dangerous if the monitor is unplugged.
Posted on Oct 10, 2007
Dead pixel 100% My first 245BW had a dead pixel, exchanged it. This is why you buy these because of the 3 year factory warranty.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Hey dont open the LCD in a hurry......the problem may be due 2 usage of LCD 4 long time better dont on the pc for a day........or in night time keep it under the fan.......this may give a better result........
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 13, 2011 | Samsung SyncMaster 753 DFX 17" CRT Monitor
Nov 05, 2010 | Acer AL1702bm 17" LCD Monitor
Basic LCD monitor troubleshooting guide: Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you. Replacement board: http://www.lcdrepair.us
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
Basic LCD monitor troubleshooting guide:
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Replacement board: http://www.lcdrepair.us
Sep 28, 2010 | Dell E228WFP LCD Monitor
Jan 14, 2010 | Gateway FPD1960 19" Flat Panel LCD Monitor
Oct 13, 2008 | HP Pavilion M703c 17 in.CRT Conventional...
Aug 05, 2008 | ViewSonic G70fmb (Black) 17" CRT Monitor
Dec 27, 2007 | LG Flatron L1919S LCD Monitor
Dec 05, 2007 | Compaq P110 21" CRT Monitor
1,054 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: