I've taken out the thermal fuse with 2 wires attached to it. Do the wires come out of the fuse or are they permanently attached. I tried to disconnect the wires, but I don't want to force them out and damage them in case they are to be permanently attached.
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Re: thermal fuse 8269213
The common construction of thermal fuses si a metallic body which is pointed on one end with that end electrically common to the shell or case and a flat end that is filled with epoxy or other insulator and both ends have permanently attached wires.
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test by placing the end of ur meter prongs on the ends of the thermal fuse prong, 2 prongs with wires attached remove the wires and attach the meter prong, you should get a reading of continuity or OHMS NOT INFINITY the circuit must be closed not open
Besides the regular fuse your microwave has two thermal fuses - one is
attached to the magnetron tube (called the magnetron Thermal Cut Off or
TCO) and the cavity TCO (usually located under the air ducts on the left
side of the microwave). If you have the wiring diagram (usually
supplied with the microwave) you can find them there. Unfortunately the
model number you provided is incomplete and I'm not able to find the
wiring diagram for your microwave.
Dryers have a thermal fuse... it's a ceramic 2-3 inch long resin-filled fuse with wires attached at both ends... near the motor...inside the dryer.. The other fuse would be your house circuit breaker panel. Check the thermal fuse..
If they have failed after working a short while, the thermal fuse used in all drip coffee makers is failing and we have had exactly the same experience with another brand.
Our toxic Chinese friends are making crappy thermal fuses along with about everything else.
Replacing these is impractical since they are in a small metal case, pointed on one end with two coaxial leads permanently attached.
Further, they are welded to wiring under the warming plate to the heating element. The area is too hot for solder and ceramic wire nuts have to be used to replace the fuse and these are tough to find anymore.
Bypassing them is a really bad idea since I know of one case where the thermal switch that causes the machine to cycle failed, the heating element melted through the aluminum plate on the bottom and set fire to a kitchen counter.
With the cost of labor being what it is, hardly any of these drip coffee makers are worth repairing.
heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem
1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)
2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)
3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis
4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.
5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience
6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars
7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed
8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire
9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back
if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling
I have a SALTON DISHWASHER MODEL SDW12.I would like to find out why the water is not heating up. Is it possible that a fuse could have blown and if so where would the fuse be situated. Any other info would be greatfully recieved.
Mark, you probabley blew the thermal fuse located on the main board. Easy fix. Part number 8269213. You can ohm it out to be sure. You have to remove the inner panel to get at the control board. The fuse sits on the top side and clips on. Two wires to it. Use the kit with the heavier wires so it doesn't happen again. Check out the attachment.