Plug in the freezer and nothing happens. There is 120v of power at the overload connected to the embraco compressor as well as starter (three prongs on the compressor, with everything connected and powered up, 2 prongs have 120 v- not sure if it should). also, he fan isnt workin. Compressor prongs read 4 ohns between the 2. Is this a problem with the timer
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I just replaced the overload relay and it does the same thing. Runs for a few seconds and the loud click from overload relay. I did notice the relay is really hot to the touch, if that matters.Coils on back are clean. I had noticed the last few months that the inside coils were frosting up quite a bit.Really had hoped it was the relay.
They make generic "compressor packs" to solve these. Your capacitors and relay and parts that support the compressor operation went out.
If you're really really like just the temp overload switch went and you can jumper bypass it. It usually looks like a piezo electric type of disc connected right onto the comp case itself.
But you're right with the DT, the motors go out on them a lot. They are usually for 4/6/10/12 hours depending on make and model. Sometimes the contacts go So if you could isolate them... they're on the larger side and will go from the power to the compressor. Use a jumper and test for a complete circuit to the plug and through the compressor before trying it.
By law all freezers and ovens have to have a schematic diagram on them. Often it it in a little plastic package and sometimes just wallpapered to the inside of a large piece of sheetmetal in back.
That sizzling noise i suspect is either the compressor overload or start capacitor burning out .
You need to look in connection box on side of compressor,the relay should just pull off once cover is off.BEWARE even with the freezer unplugged there is a charged capacitor connected inside this box and will give you a nasty shock should you touch it! with insulated pliers touch all terminals to each other and earth to make sure capacitor is discharged .You should be able to get astart capacitor and overload from local repair shop there not expensive if this doesn't fix it the compressor is possibly locked up and will need replacing
There could be many reasons for running hot, and the "Thermal Overload" is protecting the compressor. Make sure nothing else is on the circuit used by the freezer. Lastly, you may have a weak overload.
simple stuff, you have a compressor a stat and power. check the receptacle to be sure you have 120 volts . then check the compressor with stat at max cold setting to see if you have 120 volts at compressor. if you do then compresssor is bad =new compressor or new unit. if no power to compressor then stat is bad= new stat. i always recomend new unit cause new stat or compressor wont fix a freon leak.... i have replaced a few compressors that died soon after due to a freon leak. good luck...
Timer is before the power to the compressor and overload protector and is unrelated with the exception that the power passes through the timer to the thermostat and then to the compressor. Power at the compressor indicates that the timer is supplying the power. The gears in the timer turn one cycle every 8 to 12 hours depending on the model of the timer.
There is no reset switch. There is a thermal overload protector mounted on the compressor. Does the compressor hum and then give a click sound. If so your compressor has failed. If the compressor is cold (Room Temperature) and it does not try to run your thermostat may be bad. If so remove the temperature control and jumper the two main wires that connect to the control. Unit should be unplugged to do this operation. Insulated the wires so they do not contact any metal surface. Plug the freezer back in. If it runs and cools replace the thermostat.