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Re: How do I pull the clutch assembly to replace the pull...
Remove the starter housing, usually only 3 or 4 bolts or screws. on the inside should be a large white or black wheel, hold the outer case with one hand and rotate the wheel counter-clockwise with the other as many times as can without force. on the inside of the wheel should be a small hole, rotate the wheel to line it up with rope guide hole on the outer case/housing. use a nail or small screwdriver to help hold in place. feed the start rope through the 2 holes and tie a knot at the end, single or double depending on the size of the hole. if the end of the rope is frayed, use lighter to melt and twist to a point to make it easier to handle. when reassembling you may need to jiggle the handle for realignment. it works on an inner spring coil tensioner system, so if the cable has no tension when rotated or doesn't recoil back, the starter assembly will need to be replaced.
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Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. A skinny-bladed scredriver may also fit it. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the bottom of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit before installing the rope. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips or something to keep it from retracting so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the pull start handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers T-20 and T-25. Here is a link for pictures to help. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1771/How_to_Remove_a_Trimmer_Clutch.html
I am assuming you tried to pull start and the rope is stuck out. Just try pulling the rope while it is out, but stand on the hedge trimmer. Sometimes when this happens to me, I just pull the rope a little extra and then hang onto it when it goes back in. Alot of times, I think the rope gets caught on the outside of the retraction pulley causing a tangle.
remove screws on both sides of plastic housings, remove spark plug, pull off plactic cap on the bottom side of the clutch plate. stick a wooden stick in that hole to keep the crank shaft from turning when you put an adjustabloe wrench on the clutch, unscrew clutch to get other half of housing off to get to the pull rope.
Remove the pull start mechanism, remove the old rope from the inside plastic, thread a new rope through the hole in the outside and through the hole in the plastic center where you removed the old rope, Now reach between the spool and the edge of the casing and pull some slack in the rope, there will be a notch in the spool, set the rope into the notch and begin spinning the spool to make tension in the spring ( correct direction is the same way the rope is spooled in. go until you have good tension on spring, grab rope left outside casing and pull through, then let rope get pulled into the spool with the spring tension you have created. Now just reattach the handle.
Remove the housing with the coil in it. Remove the screw on it, its the screw with about 3/8 washer on it. It is where the old rope was hooked up, and should still have a piece of it under the washer. It has a D shaped groove under it. take the new rope and burn the frays on it make it stiff and small. Turn the pulley around and around until it gets real tight, and align the hole in the pulley with the hole in the shroud. Take a c clamp or visegrips and clamp it in place if you can. I just hold it, then feed the rope through the hole in the shroud and pulley and rap it round D shape groove. Replace the screw and washer. Tighten it up then let go of pulley. It should zip up real quick and all way to the handle, and be real tight.
Are you sure you have the right length rope??? If you are sure the rope length is correct you may have wound the recoil spring too tight causing it to run out of travel. You want the recoil spring just tight enough to pull the rope all the way in. Wayne
Hi, this a cut&paste from elswhere but it applies to your problem: how to repair a recoil spring: whats missing is this, you should always wgear eye protection when dealing with springs of any kind. remember safty first. :)
Remove the recoil shroud and take a look at the assembly.
You might have a broken spring or just a rope that has slipped out of the reel.
The spring usually breaks at one of the end tabs. If so, you will need
to get a replacement spring and carefully wind that in, before
re-assembling the rope reel. You might wish to replace the rope also,
if it shows signs
You will need to remove the entire cooling shroud. There should be 4
bolts on the sides. You might need to remove the fuel tank also.
Pre-wind the recoil reel by hand [about 6 turns, to set the spring
tension] and clamp it with Vise-Grip pliers. Remove the old rope. Thread
the new rope through the shroud housing eyelet and to the reel hub. Let
the reel re-wind itself until it is full. If there is not enough spring
tension you can wind it a couple of turns more by slipping the rope
between the reel and shroud. Re-clamp the reel. Cut the rope to length
and thread it though the handle. At all knots, burn and melt the rope
lighter to prevent untying. Re-assemble. (special thanks to "Micheal"the author)
remove the starter housing, usually only 3 or 4 bolts or screws. on the inside should be a large white or black wheel, hold the outer case with one hand and rotate the wheel counter-clockwise with the other as many times as can without force. on the inside of the wheel should be a small hole, rotate the wheel to line it up with rope guide hole on the outer case/housing. use a nail or small screwdriver to help hold in place. feed the start rope through the 2 holes and tie a knot at the end, single or double depending on the size of the hole. if the end of the rope is frayed, use lighter to melt and twist to a point to make it easier to handle. when reassembling you may need to jiggle the handle for realignment. it works on an inner spring coil tensioner system, so if the cable has no tension when rotated or doesn't recoil back, the starter assembly will need to be replaced.